After working out what we wanted to do yesterday, we settled on leaving Paw Paw in Chichime after hearing all sorts of stories of other yachts dragging, hitting reefs, losing anchors, etc and headed via dinghy for what we thought was a uninhabited tiny island just south of us. It is, in essence, a heap of golden sand approx 1/8th of an acre in size with about 5 palm trees on it and surrounded by reefs - simply stunning! As we approached, however, we soon noticed a hut under the trees, occupied by two Guna Indian families, who welcomed us ashore even though we didn't have the $2/person fee to give them.
After enjoying our stay an unexpected challenge developed - the tide was coming in and rather large waves were dumping on the shore which made our dinghy launch impossible. Fortunately a local water taxi stopped by for a visit and showed us their safe route out. After making it safely back to Chichime, we decided that our exploration were better served closer to home. Chichime is a beautiful island, but sadly spoilt by the amount of garbage scattered in places.
We topped off the day with a lovely dinner and drinks aboard Nina (Lynda and Steve) with their friends Lesley and Chris.
This morning it was up early to catch the water taxi we had arranged to take Elaine to Porvenir along with five other sailors in order to clear in. The day didn't start off well and got progressively worse. The taxi didn't arrive so the chief of Chichime was kind enough to arrange his water taxi to take us. Halfway across the channel, in rather large swells, Elaine really doubted the decision to take a water taxi over vs moving Paw Paw. Anyway, we arrived safe and sound, started the rather cumbersome clearing in process and we were getting through it all in reasonably good time when the last step halted everything - the immigration officer had lost some of his receipt books and would not process one more person until he discovered what had happened to them. Four hours later, with threats that we would all have to return tomorrow, he eventually learnt that the missing receipt books were never delivered in the first place and it was quite alright for him to continue using the new books which he did have. By now we were approaching his lunch break and he promptly informed us that we had to pay him overtime to finish processing us as he was too stressed and would not be undertaking any further processing this afternoon. This, after Elaine had already shelled out $270.00 in visa fees and local taxes, excluding all the money the WARC was paying on our behalf for the cruising permit. The blatant way in which he simply pocketed the overtime money handed to him was staggering. The corker for the day was twofold though. We were told there were no toilets on the island for us to use and when questioned we were told to use the sea. So, in deparation, Elaine and another lady who was clearing out as well, had to squat behind a bush on the edge of the beach with waves lapping to do our business. Then, when we eventually returned to Chichime the chief was so angry with us for taking so long to get back he wanted to charge us extra fares for the taxi. This, after we managed to return an hour earlier than previously arranged. No explanation would pacify him and the conversation ended in him telling us that we must just leave his island. When we told him we all had planned to leave in the morning he indicated that that was a good thing and to just leave!
Needless to say, the San Blas Islands have definitely not left a good impression on us. Between the cost of our very short stay and the manner in which we have been treated leaves a lot to be desired!
After a rather lumpy night in higher winds and seas than forecasted for the last 12 hours of our passage and struggling to slow Paw Paw down as she romped along at speeds of 9 to 12 Kts, we eventually dropped the main sail and continued on a double-reefed head sail only to ensure an arrival in daylight. As the day broke we started to see tuffs of palm trees sticking out of the sea and masts of yachts which seemed to be anchored in the middle of nowhere. These were the San Blas Islands. An archepeligo of 340 plus islands owned and controlled by the indigenous Guna Indians, although part of mainland Panama. While accepting of visitors, they prohibit any non-Guna from settling or intermarrying and have, thus, maintained their culture and traditions without the influence of our modern world. A notable exception is the introduction of the mobile phone, but there is no infrastructure for the owners to charge them so visiting yachts provide the service. Numbering around 55 000, they are organised within a strict hierarchy of tribal leaders, including three "Sailas" (chiefs) per village and three "Caciques" (high chiefs) who rule the nation. Along with this is a rather expensive laundry list of fees we have to pay, in addition to what we have already paid to Panama.
We arrived in this rather strange part of the world just as the sun was rising, furled the head sail and motored through the reefs into the outside anchorage off Chichime Island. After washing and tidying up Paw Paw, followed by a nap we headed for the beach to join the potluck luncheon and reconnect with the rest of the fleet, after the WARC obtained permission for us to occupy the land. We were entertained by traditional dancing and music and got to see the type of huts the people live in, but needless to say, we were also looking forward to an early night and our beds!
We left Marina Santa Marta in calm winds and not struggling off the dock. We then spent the next 20 minutes motoring before picking up the winds and seas that were forecasted. Although the seas were 6 to 8 Ft and the winds 25 to 30 Kts initially, it was a lot calmer than the previous day. After 4 hours or so both the seas and wind settled to a comfortable 15 to 20 Kts in 4 to 6 Ft seas as we sailed along nicely maintaning our double-reefed main and head sails. Since rounding the river mouth at Baranquilla at a distance of 15 NM, we've enjoyed champagne sailing in 10 to 15 Kt winds out of the north in 1 to 3 Ft seas and we were rewarded with another pod of dolpins crossing our bow. The dose of patience has certainly paid off! We're looking forward to our morning arrival tomorrow in the San Blas Islands.
The start of Leg 2 to the San Blas Islands has been postponed due to bad weather until 0800 tomorrow. We have, however, taken the decision to postpone to at least Friday, given current predictions. We will keep you all posted on developments.
