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Stable trade winds at last. We haven't had the engines on in nearly 24 hours. Thank goodness, but be careful what you wish for. Unfortunately with the steadier, stronger winds come the squalls and lumpy seas. Fortunately the squalls are light and more like isolated showers, so Paw Paw gets a fresh water wash down every few hours. We're hoping the seas settle down as we head further west, particularly the swell, which we have more or less on the beam at times and makes for a rather uncomfortable ride. Apart from that, we've settled in to our watch schedule and associated sleeping patterns as well as finding the time to read and bake. It's fair to say, that if anyone had told us 27 years ago, on the day our wonderful son was born, that we would be in the middle of the Pacific Ocean in the midst of a circumnavigation, instead of celebrating his birthday with him, we would have said they were smoking something. But, alas, we are and want to wish Keenan a very Happy Birthday for tomorrow. We are both so proud of the man you have grown into and the loving father and husband-to-be that you are.
It's been a day of exercise, mostly for Roy. If we dropped and raised the main sail once, we did it a hundred times. I don't think we have ever made so many sail changes in one day. We've either had no wind or some wind or reasnabky good wind or wind from the wrong direction ie on the nose. So rather than loose the south westing we've made to pick up the stable trades, it's been a case of sails down, motors on, then sails up, motors off, then head sail down, motors stay on, then gennaker, up, then gennaker down. It's been ludicrous to say the least. Right now it's stronger wind on the nose with motors on, head sail furled and main sheeted in as we wait on a directional change. Nope. Change that. Motors off. We're sailing with some isolated showers added for interest aka we're now wet from doing the sail changes. Nope change that. Wind has dropped again. We're motor sailing. I kid you not! This, all in the time it has taken to write this update. And we atill have 2564NM to go.
Well, we found some wind. From dawn until 1400 we were able to sail, but since then it has been a combination of motor sailing and plain old motoring. This afternoon we had another analyses session using every weather forecasts from every source we could get our hands on and it seems the "bubble" or "hole" of little to no wind is following us - Surprise, surprise! We remain hopeful though of picking up wind within the next 24 hours as we head SW where the SE trades are forecasted to be more stable. Keeping an eye on our fuel consumption indicates that we have used 12% of our fuel to complete 10% of our passage. Not too bad, but we'd much prefer wind please. Putting all these statistics aside, nothing compares to the brightness of the stars on this moonless night. They seem so close that one feels one can reach up to them. I guess some might say we're nuts to be leading the life that we are right now - granted it's not an easy feat and, if it were, everyone would be doing it - but the rewards are truly beyond what you can imagine in your wildest dreams!

After motoring all night last night, we had to motor all day as well and, unfortunately, we are still motoring tonight. There is not a breath of wind - I guess that's the Doldrums and one can't help but wonder what it must have been like for those sailing vessels, centuries ago, that got stuck here with no other means of propulsion.

We can't have everything though, so we settled for the beautiful sunny skies, the deep blue flat seas, the dolpins that stopped by to play in Paw Paw's bows and the yellowfin tuna Roy caught this evening and served for dinner - It's a sailors life alright!

We are hopeful though that we will pick up the SE trades within the next 24 hours based on the latest forecasts we analysed this afternoon and altered course to head SSW from our original planned course of SW. I guess time will tell!

With a good breeze at 120", Paw Paw was on her favourite point of sail. With Elaine helming and flying along at 7.5 Kts, it wasn't long, after we crossed the start line, before we were ahead of all the other catamarans and 3rd overall. We were indeed grateful for the wind that wasn't forecasted.

We settled into a lovely afternoon of sailing and as the wind dropped, with gennaker deployed, we were entertained by a pod of rather large dolphins - all of them at least 6ft in length. That was followed by a rendition of "Happy Birthday" via the satellite phone, to our grand-daughter, Capri. It was a perfect ending to a magical visit in the Galapagos islands and a perfect stsrt to our first cean passage!

Now we concentrate on fuel consumption as we motor along in less than 2 Kts of wind, heading in a southerly ditection in order to pick up the SE trade winds, but avoiding an area known for no wind, large swells and squalls.

S ent from Iridium Mail & Web.

Excitement is definitely running high on Paw Paw tonight with less than 15 hours to go before we commence our first ocean crossing. We leave the Galapagos at noon tomorrow and head into the great blue yonder for 25 to 30 days. Seeing land again, we believe, will be a welcome sight indeed after this voyage. It's a scary thought to think that, in 35 years together, Roy and I have never spent this length of time alone in a 46ft x 25ft space - Should make for interesting developments.

We will, however, have plenty of time to indulge ourselves with our favourite pastimes - Playing the saxophone and writing for Elaine; Fishing and reading for Roy and refining our Celestial Navigation skills together.

For now we're enjoyed a lovely dinner in the company of the crew from Waterman, content in the knowledge that we have completed all our planning and preparations to the best of our ability and look forward to this next chapter in our am azing adventure.


We've had a busy few days in preparation for the Wednesday start of Leg 4 to Hiva Oa, Marquesas - the longest passage of the circumnavigation - 3000NM. Activities have included laundry, topping up on provisioning, topping up on diesel, making water so we have full tanks, checking every inch of Paw Paw to make sure all the rigging is sound and in good working order, finishing off some last minute maintenance jobs, etc

It hasn't been "all work and no play" though. We enjoyed a get-together arranged by Mary Beth from Paradise Found yesterday evening followed by dinner with Steve and Linda from Nina and their new crew members, Karen and Peter. Tonight was the Skippers Briefing followed by an informal prize-giving and then dinner - a delicious three course meal served at one of the local restaurants, Il Giardino.

Tomorrow we'll finalise our passage plan based on the latest weather forecasts, take a last minute trip to the fresh produce market, finish uploading all our photos of our stay here in the glorious Galapagos islands and enjoy the last of "terra firme".

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