Yesterday was an early start as was today, but for very different reasons. As the sun peeked over the horizons we weighed anchor for our motor from Isla Isabela to Santa Cruz, arriving mid afternoon and not a moment too soon for Elaine, who was very nearly seasick for the second time in her life due to the frequency of the swell on our beam. Fortunately a nap took care of the initial symptoms.
This morning it was up eearly to "race" all the other yachts to the Saturday morning fresh produce market for all our supplies prior to heading across the Pacific. As it transpired, although everyone else had the same idea, there was no need. The market was so well stocked that there was more than plenty to go around. In fact, it was an amazing market, given the size of this island.
But, the astonishing matter of the day and, indeed the voyage thus far, was Elaine's trip to the hospital this morning to see a doctor for a bladder infection th at had plagued her since Colombia and, no matter what, was just not shifting.
After a short wait, with Lucelle, one of the WARC team members as an interpreter, Elaine received a consultation with the doctor on duty, received an antibiotic injection, one of three to be administered over three days, along with some tablets and left, not having had to pay a single penny. Medical Care is free for citizens and visitors alike here - Unbelievable! One can't help but wonder which countries are indeed 1st world and which are 3rd world!
An added benefit is that Elaine doesn't have to return to the hospital for the remainng injections as Claudine, from Wishanger II, is a nurse and has agreed to do the honours for her. Our thanks go out to both Lucelle and Claudine for all their help!
Yesterday we quibbled about spending nearly $200 on a tour to Los Tuneles, but are we glad we did! We had the most magnificent day and, no matter what else happens or whatever else we experience during the remainder of our circumnavigation, it will be icing on the cake after today.
We were collected from Paw Paw by a tour boat and headed up the west coast of Isla Isabela. The tour involved a short stop at Roca Union to view a different type of Boobie and then headed to Cabo Rosa for two separate snorkeling adventures that were beyond our wildest dreams. We saw huge turtles that were at least 5-6ft long and 4ft wide, baby and adult seahorses, schools of golden rays, white-tipped sharks, royal angel fish, penguins and not just one or two of each of these, but countless. They were so unperturbed by our presence that we came within a few feet of these creatures. The penguins allowed us to come within a foot of them while they bathed in the sun. The turtles gracefully swam along side us and amongst us at arms length.
The last part of the tour involved a meander through an unbelievable lava landscape of lava arches with cacti growing out of them and surrounded by the clearest water we have ever seen. The lunch that was provided was definitely welcomed, but the locally produced oranges served for dessert were the sweetest and juiciest we have ever tasted.
What a magical day!
We arrived in Puerto Villamil, Isla Isabela mid morning yesterday. Known as the "Jewel of the Galapagos Harbours" it is easy to see why. It is wild and unspoilt. The reefs surrounding the anchorage are home to a variety of both marine and land wildlife.
During our early morning snorkeling adventure this morning we saw white-tipped sharks, sea lions and all sorts of reef fish, but the cutest of all are the Galapagos penguins. They are less than a foot tall and dart around the water at amazing speeds. What added to the joy of this snorkel outing was that every time we raised our heads to look around us we had blue-footed boobies curiously staring at us - a sight to behold and an amzing experience.
Yesterday we took a long walk along the white sandy beach which stretches for miles leading from the little town into the wilderness along the rugged coastline.
The little town is very rustic and one has a sense of going back in time with its dirt streets and quaint buildings - a stark contrast to the beautiful road that leads from the dock area, known as the embarcadero, into town.
We did get to enjoy a "lunch of the day" special with Nina (Lynda and Steve) today at one of the local restaurants and this evening we're heading over to Paradise Found (Mary Beth and Mike) for drinks along with most of the occupants of the other yachts in the anchorage. Another fun evening to top off another fun day!
Elaine decided to take a timeout on Saturday and spent the day relaxing aboard. Roy went ashore to visit the fresh produce market and then we both enjoyed sundowners ashore followed by a delicious dinner with crew from three other yachts, one of whom - Daz- is onboard with us for a few days hitching a ride to Isla Isabela.
Today we enjoyed a WARC arranged tour which had us up bright and early to visit one of the beaches south of our anchorage in order to snorkel in a lagoon where turtles sleep. A most unusual sight, but very cool indeed! We also had the good fortune of seeing a huge marine iguana swim past us.
That was followed by a boat trip to Kicker Rock for another snorkeling adventure. Unfortunately the water was very murky and it was cloudy, but when the sun decided to peak through the clouds we did manage to see sharks, turtles and sealions along with the other marine life. On land we saw Blue-Footed Boobies which are an odd looking bird with their bright blue feet. We were then taken to yet another beautiful beach for lunch and a relax before heading back to base.
The highlight of our day was, however, reconnecting with Ondular (Isabel and Mick) whom we hadn't seen since last May in Martinique and who just arrived today after sailing from Ecuador. Although a fleeting visit, we thoroughly enjoyed seeing them again and spending a lovely evening together before we had to set sail or, should I say, set motoring, to Isla Isabela tonight in calm winds and flat seas.
Since yesterday was a public holiday, the residents of Puerto Baquerizo Moreno, the capital of Isla San Cristobal, were out in force, so we got to partake in the festivities as well. These included delicious treats from street vendors, a fishing contest, a fireworks display, a concert featuring varoius local artists, which, of course, lead to dancing under the stars. We also managed to squeeze in a Happy Hour with the other WARC participants, as well as enjoy a lovely dinner with Nina (Lynda and Steve).
A few hours after crossing into the Southern Hemisphere and witnessing the most amazing sunrise yesterday, it was "land ahoy" - San Cristobal, Galapagos was spotted in the distance and we were welcomed by rays, dolphins, sea lions and birds of all types en route to our anchorage, where we remained in quarantine until we completed all the officialdom yesterday and today. Taking the water taxi to land this morning reveled the most amazing place. We definitely have a sense, after just one day of exploring, of how Charles Darwin felt when he first encountered these islands. Spectacular! More details and photos to follow.
