Fortunately, we were preemptive back in January, after the last fiasco over New Year, in scheduling an appointment with immigration, suspecting that there was a strong possibility that this situation would materialise. Our hope is that we can, at the very least, obtain an extension that will allow us to complete Elaine’s outstanding specialist appointments, as well as afford us the time to prepare Paw Paw for departure without murdering ourselves, including completing a few outstanding yacht projects which had to be redone for various reasons, turning our floating “caravan“ back into a yacht and provisioning for a number of weeks / months.
The disappointing aspects of all of this, of course, is that it has come to this, after receiving such fabulous hospitality and medical care for nearly a year and just at the time when we were eligible for the COVID-19 vaccine, the latter of which would have made travel a little easier and a great deal safer, especially for Elaine. This announcement also comes at a time of the year when cruisers have missed the weather window to set sail across the North Indian Ocean, given that the cyclone season in the Bay of Bengal is upon us now, as well as being in the middle of the monsoon seasonal change, bringing with it tremendous thunderstorm storms and torrential downpours, all of which is to be followed by the southwest monsoon season due to set in any day now, making a southerly passage in international waters on the western side of Sumatra extremely difficult, if not impossible. It hasn’t helped matters that appeals by various yachting sponsors here in Malaysia have gone unanswered or have had the termination date simply re-iterated. This all boils down to the fact that cruisers now desperately need another nearby country willing to host us all under these extraordinary circumstances. Guess time will tell!
Aside from this unprecedented development, our preparations have thus far included Elaine’s efforts today of clearing out and reorganising all the bilges and cupboards to create storage space for our bulk provisioning, spending Thursday and yesterday collating all the paperwork needed for our appointment at immigration and corresponding with our agent in Thailand, while, on Monday and Tuesday, Roy worked to complete all the sealant in Elaine’s head. Then on Wednesday and Thursday he re-addressed the stubborn leak in one of our water tanks, although Thursday also involved his final trip to the Gleneagles Hospital for a followup appointment and, the past two days, he’s worked to complete the re-designed fuel polishing system for both fuel tanks.
Other activities over the week have included a nice chat to Anne, off Time Bandit, who are still in the Maldives, a few logistical phone calls with Craig, off Il Signo, who finds himself in the same predicament as every other cruiser in Malaysia at the moment, catching up on family correspondence, submitting our latest medical insurance claims, getting the laundry done, including all the throw mats, using our new washing machine, although this activity had to be postponed from Tuesday, but Wednesday wasn’t much better; the monsoon transition period is definitely packing a few punches this year with the afternoon thunderstorms and torrential rain.
To give ourselves a break from the mayhem, we enjoyed a takeaway dinner from our favourite Indian restaurant, the Kapitan, on Wednesday, then dinner on the patio of our favourite Japanese restaurant, Nomiya, yesterday evening.
A few more yachts also arrived in the marina this week, clearly not expecting the amnesty to be rescinded, including Bob the Cat, who was behind us in Rebak marina, but, as yet, we haven’t met the new owners.
The highlights of the week, though, have included a few more photographs received from Elaine’s folks of their fabulous Diamond Wedding Anniversary celebration we all enjoyed last Sunday, a photograph of the grandsons sporting their new haircuts, complements of their dad, receiving the news that Elaine’s sister in Ireland is going to be a granny again, with a 4th grandchild on the way, and, finally, the otters coming to play in the marina.
Besides a lovely surprise video call from Justine on Friday, we also ran out of propane right in the middle of Roy baking muffins for Elaine. Fortunately a new bottle was delivered within an hour, allowing Roy to continue his baking efforts, which also included hot-cross buns for himself. Our new washing machine eventually arrived too. Since it’s a little bigger than our previous one, it took some persuasion and a bit of jiggling to get it into position, but it worked out perfectly in the end. Our measurements were accurate!
Yesterday was cleaning day, with the usual delegation of duties; Roy cleaned the exterior, while Elaine tackled the interior. It seems we expend an awful lot of energy these days just keeping Paw Paw clean, never mind all the projects we’ve tackled over this past year.
Today, however, the special project Elaine had been working on with her siblings for a few months came to fruition; a virtual “family reunion” to celebrate the Diamond Wedding Anniversary of her folks.
Surprises included the delivery by Elaine’s sister, Dianne, of a tailor-made anniversary card, a beautifully decorated anniversary cake, which was apparently delicious too, both arranged by Elaine and a champagne hamper, prepared by Dianne, all of which was presented on behalf of the entire family ahead of a Zoom get-together which took place mid-afternoon UK Time.
During the get-together, facilitated by Elaine, the celebrations started with her siblings in South Africa and Ireland joining the meeting, before her parents were admitted. After the initial hellos and well wishes, the song, “The Wedding”, originally sung at Elaine’s folks’ wedding 60 years ago was played, only this time, Dianne had arranged for it to be sung by Finbarr, who had recorded it specially for this celebration, a singer who has entertained our family over the years at the Buurendal Hotel in Newcastle and, on more than one occasion, had invited Elaine’s dad onto the stage to accompany him in a song or two. Having Finbarr jump at the opportunity to record their wedding song for this event was a wonderful and very special gesture indeed; one that was clearly appreciated and a wonderful surprise judging by the reaction of the ol’ folks.
Soon thereafter each of the grandchildren and their families in South Africa and England were admitted to the meeting to spend a few minutes with their grandparents. Attempts were made for Keenan, flying over the Gulf of Mexico at the time, to join the festivities as well, but alas, technology on the aircraft blocked his participation, but his efforts were very much appreciated by his grandparents and a separate Zoom session is being arranged with him and the family in Arizona once he is back home.
The proceedings continued with a very apt and touching speech and a toast by Elaine’s brother and then Elaine reciting the “poem” she had written for this Diamond Anniversary celebration, in keeping with the traditional of having written one for her parents on their Ruby and Golden Anniversaries. The cutting of the cake and an anniversary dance to “My First, My Last, My Everything”, the latter selected by Elaine’s youngest sister, completed a wonderful celebration and a fitting tribute to a couple who have been an inspiration to our family.
Besides this significant milestone, it was also Easter Sunday as well as the “Qing Ming” festival, the latter observed across Asia and SE Asia. In Malaysia, it was being celebrated for the first time since 2019, as activities were cancelled last year due to the MCO (Movement Control Order). However, this year, rules were implemented to prevent infections, including a cap on the number of people allowed to take part and a time limit on prayers.
Also known as “Tomb Sweeping Day”, it is one of the most important festivals for Chinese communities, during which it is customary to offer prayers, sweep loved ones' graves and burn paper models of items that are believed to be useful in the afterlife. We first learnt about this custom while touring in Singapore and, at the time, models included money, clothes, shoes, accessories, iPhones, lingerie, yachts, planes and mansions. However, this year the COVID-19 pandemic has led to the addition of virus-themed offerings. These include sets of paper masks, goggles, bottles of hand sanitisers and thermometers, with the hope that ancestors can use them to fight COVID-19 in the afterlife.
For our family, though, it was a day to set aside the pandemic and the miles that separated us. It was a time to celebrate a remarkable achievement, a time to honour our parents and a time to reflect on their lifetime together, all encapsulated in Elaine’s “poem”:
On the 4th of April 1961, Irene and Hugh Pledged to each other to be forever true But I’m not sure either of them realised That 60 years later they’d still be together, enjoying the sunrise Over the Mountains of Mourne As each new day is born
Together forever, Until death us do part Were the vows and the endeavour They gave with their hearts Now today they can smile At that first step they took down the aisle
From Ireland to Africa and back They certainly have the knack A number of children, grandchildren and great-grandchildren later They couldn’t have started anything greater
And 20 years on I never thought I’d still be writing these poems And that you two Would still be chugging along
You’ve passed Ruby and Golden And now the purest, Diamond Admired for its beauty, shine and A symbol of enduring commitment Which came with a shedload of excitement But your true love conquered all that is beholden
So, on this 4th day of April 2021 With 60 years of togetherness, love, adventure and fun We all wish you both a celebration that is cosmic and epic Albeit in the midst of a terrible pandemic!
Friday and yesterday were somewhat typical days in Straits Quay marina aboard Paw Paw.
Besides a lovely surprise video call from Justine on Friday, we also ran out of propane right in the middle of Roy baking muffins for Elaine. Fortunately a new bottle was delivered within an hour, allowing Roy to continue his baking efforts, which also included hot-cross buns for himself. Our new washing machine eventually arrived too. Since it’s a little bigger than our previous one, it took some persuasion and a bit of jiggling to get it into position, but it worked out perfectly in the end. Our measurements were accurate!
Yesterday was cleaning day, with the usual delegation of duties; Roy cleaned the exterior, while Elaine tackled the interior. It seems we expend an awful lot of energy these days just keeping Paw Paw clean, never mind all the projects we’ve tackled over this past year.
Today, however, the special project Elaine had been working on with her siblings for a few months came to fruition; a virtual “family reunion” to celebrate the Diamond Wedding Anniversary of her folks.
Surprises included the delivery by Elaine’s sister, Dianne, of a tailor-made anniversary card, a beautifully decorated anniversary cake, which was apparently delicious too, both arranged by Elaine and a champagne hamper, prepared by Dianne, all of which was presented on behalf of the entire family ahead of a Zoom get-together which took place mid-afternoon UK Time.
During the get-together, facilitated by Elaine, the celebrations started with her siblings in South Africa and Ireland joining the meeting, before her parents were admitted. After the initial hellos and well wishes, the song, “The Wedding”, originally sung at Elaine’s folks’ wedding 60 years ago was played, only this time, Dianne had arranged for it to be sung by Finbarr, who had recorded it specially for this celebration, a singer who has entertained our family over the years at the Buurendal Hotel in Newcastle and, on more than one occasion, had invited Elaine’s dad onto the stage to accompany him in a song or two. Having Finbarr jump at the opportunity to record their wedding song for this event was a wonderful and very special gesture indeed; one that was clearly appreciated and a wonderful surprise judging by the reaction of the ol’ folks.
Soon thereafter each of the grandchildren and their families in South Africa and England were admitted to the meeting to spend a few minutes with their grandparents. Attempts were made for Keenan, flying over the Gulf of Mexico at the time, to join the festivities as well, but alas, technology on the aircraft blocked his participation, but his efforts were very much appreciated by his grandparents and a separate Zoom session is being arranged with him and the family in Arizona once he is back home.
The proceedings continued with a very apt and touching speech and a toast by Elaine’s brother and then Elaine reciting the “poem” she had written for this Diamond Anniversary celebration, in keeping with the traditional of having written one for her parents on their Ruby and Golden Anniversaries. The cutting of the cake and an anniversary dance to “My First, My Last, My Everything”, the latter selected by Elaine’s youngest sister, completed a wonderful celebration and a fitting tribute to a couple who have been an inspiration to our family.
Besides this significant milestone, it was also Easter Sunday as well as the “Qing Ming” festival, the latter observed across Asia and SE Asia. In Malaysia, it was being celebrated for the first time since 2019, as activities were cancelled last year due to the MCO (Movement Control Order). However, this year, rules were implemented to prevent infections, including a cap on the number of people allowed to take part and a time limit on prayers.
Also known as “Tomb Sweeping Day”, it is one of the most important festivals for Chinese communities, during which it is customary to offer prayers, sweep loved ones' graves and burn paper models of items that are believed to be useful in the afterlife. We first learnt about this custom while touring in Singapore and, at the time, models included money, clothes, shoes, accessories, iPhones, lingerie, yachts, planes and mansions. However, this year the COVID-19 pandemic has led to the addition of virus-themed offerings. These include sets of paper masks, goggles, bottles of hand sanitisers and thermometers, with the hope that ancestors can use them to fight COVID-19 in the afterlife.
For our family, though, it was a day to set aside the pandemic and the miles that separated us. It was a time to celebrate a remarkable achievement, a time to honour our parents and a time to reflect on their lifetime together, all encapsulated in Elaine’s “poem”:
On the 4th of April 1961, Irene and Hugh
Pledged to each other to be forever true
But I’m not sure either of them realised
That 60 years later they’d still be together, enjoying the sunrise
Over the Mountains of Mourne
As each new day is born
Together forever,
Until death us do part
Were the vows and the endeavour
They gave with their hearts
Now today they can smile
At that first step they took down the aisle
From Ireland to Africa and back
They certainly have the knack
A number of children, grandchildren and great-grandchildren later
They couldn’t have started anything greater
And 20 years on
I never thought I’d still be writing these poems
And that you two
Would still be chugging along
You’ve passed Ruby and Golden
And now the purest, Diamond
Admired for its beauty, shine and
A symbol of enduring commitment
Which came with a shedload of excitement
But your true love conquered all that is beholden
So, on this 4th day of April 2021
With 60 years of togetherness, love, adventure and fun
We all wish you both a celebration that is cosmic and epic
Albeit in the midst of a terrible pandemic!
While Roy spent his day downloading waypoints and charts for various parts of the world which will cover all the bases for us and started another yacht project; redoing the sealant in his head (aka bathroom), Elaine continued on our “Magnolious Malaysia - Penang Island” video. However, besides bringing back wonderful memories of life before the pandemic and socialising with cruising friends, she also realised we have an awful lot of footage, testament to the fabulous time we’ve had on Penang Island. As a result, she’s decided to split this video into multiple ones in order to do the area more justice, all of which means a bit more work, but will certainly keep her busy for a while.
Our day ended with the news that Penang State, along with a few others, were to remain under the Conditional MCO (Movement Control Order) until 14th April, but there was no word on the extension of the visa amnesty or the overarching MCO, which could provide the amnesty. Additionally, we received information regarding the East Malaysia rally, which was still up in the air because interstate travel was still prohibited and the uncertainty regarding the visas still swirled. Then, just before bedtime, we received word that Thailand had extended their STV (Special Tourist Visa) for cruisers and, with that, our anxieties lifted instantly; we had options!
Needless to say, the latter was very unexpected and has introduced a slight timing issue, given that we have a few balls in the air that require resolution first. Regardless, it was fabulous news and gave us a plan of action at last or did it!
Yesterday we woke to the news that the overarching MCO had been gazetted and was extended to 1st August 2021, but still no word on the amnesty. Then, Elaine’s followup appointment with her specialist resulted in the recommendation to have the COVID-19 vaccine, given a change of policy by Malaysia’s Academy of Medicine, aligning with the decisions made by other medical experts around the world. So, given that we’re registered for the vaccine and we are in the next group to be vaccinated from mid April, it now makes more sense to stay put, if possible, in order to get vaccinated.
On the downside, unfortunately Elaine has developed symptoms related to the length of time she has been on the corticosteroids, all of which required further investigation and diagnosis and all of which put us straight back into limbo, but a lunch at our favourite Vietnamese restaurant was a great way to celebrate all the good news we’d received, nonetheless.
So, today, while Roy completed the sealant in his head, Elaine was back at the hospital, but, as her folks rightly pointed out on a video call yesterday evening, we’re lucky to be in a country where access to fabulous medical treatment is immediately available and has been throughout this pandemic. Fortunately, after a scope procedure, nothing sinister was found and what was found can be resolved without too much fuss. Another huge sigh of relief, followed by a celebratory lunch at our favourite Japanese restaurant, Nomiya. After lunch, Roy set out to get the battery replaced on his iPhone and Elaine set out to collect her new glasses. At this point, she’ll be a whole new woman by the time we leave Malaysia. Cherry blossoms, exceptionally high spring tides improving our view and mango smoothies were the cherry on the cake!
All in all, it’s been a good few days and we’re extremely grateful for all the options that have opened up for us, although all require a little more patience to see where exactly the cards will fall.
So, Sunday’s task, besides defrosting the freezer and topping up the battery water, was to troubleshoot the issue with the port engine. After disconnecting the fuel polishing system, the engine purred like a kitten. The generator, however, still cut out, definitely confirming an issue with the temperature sensor. Fortunately that spare part has arrived, which Roy will replace in due course.
As for the fuel polishing system, this has been redesigned to eliminate all the oneway valves, which weren’t functioning as designed, and this too will be reinstalled in due course; just when he thought he was finished with yacht projects!
Elaine spent her days being the usual gofer as needed, baking, catching up with family and friends around the world and preparing the dimensions and shape for an awning we’re hoping to have made. “Meeting” her great-great-grandparents by way of a photograph, secured by Elaine’s nephew during his Family Tree research, was definitely an unexpected event, as well as learning that her great-great-grandfather was a Sgt Major, who received the Queens South African medal for action at the Battle of Tugela Heights on the 14th and 27th of February 1900 and Relief of Ladysmith on the 28th February 1900. Elaine’s brother followed in our great-great-grandfather’s footsteps on a tour a couple of years ago and the medal is with our aunt. Fascinating what comes to live when one delves into the past!
Not quite the distant past, but, nonetheless, a tad surreal too, we ended up with Kristal a single berth away from us after the marina staff had completed the “musical chairs” activity of moving various yachts around. It was definitely a strange sight to have both World ARC yachts as immediate neighbours again after all this time.
Today, having expected the Yanmar mechanic onboard to undertake the work on our engines that we had previously arranged to be done in Thailand last year, we received a message that a health matter has delayed his arrival; one that is not COVID-19 related we understand, but certainly had us jump to that conclusion initially. As a result, we used the time to get the laundry done, a mission in itself these days, as Roy lugs everything up to the laundromat, gets everything washed and dried, then rushes back to Paw Paw so Elaine can fold everything before it wrinkles. We’re hoping this palaver changes in the not too distant future too, but for now it’s the only means of getting a necessary warm water wash done.
After lunch it was time for Elaine’s long overdue optometry appointment, something she could no longer postpone, given the uncertainty around the visa amnesty again, definitely increasing our anxiety levels as the deadline approaches. The freshly baked French pastry with our late morning coffee, however, went a long way to assuage us.
Of course, life on the water, already severely impacted by the pandemic, now has another matter to contend with, specifically impacting those cruisers who set sail from SE Asia earlier this year to transit the Suez Canal or, indeed, those who’ve just had their yachts shipped to the Mediterranean; the giant cargo ship, Ever Given, grounded sideways in the canal. Dislodging it is proving to be an enormous challenge for marine and salvage engineers alike, never mind the impact this is likely to have on world trade if it’s not resolved soon. About 12% of global trade passes through the canal, which connects the Mediterranean Sea to the Red Sea and provides the shortest sea link between Asia and Europe.
The Ever Given, a 400 metre / 1300 Ft long, 59 metre / 194 Ft wide, 200,000 tonne vessel, that became wedged across the canal amid high winds and a dust storm, will, no doubt, take some time to re-float. In the meantime the only alternative route is around the Cape of Good Hope on the southern tip of Africa, which can add two weeks to a voyage. South Africa’s coastline is about to get a whole lot busier!
Our challenge for the day, which definitely paled into insignificance, was to re-gas our starboard air-conditioning unit, given that we’d fixed the leak a week or so ago. Fortunately, Roy got it up and running again, but the myriad of connectors to the Malaysian gas canister precluded him from getting the gas pressure needed to run it at optimum temperature. Depending on how our plans unfold over the coming weeks, we may be able to get a company in to top-up all our units; in for a penny, in for a pound.
Elaine, however, spent her day uploading all our latest videos; “Magnolious Malaysia - Johor Bahru”, “Magnolious Malaysia - Malacca”, “Magnolious Malaysia - Pangkor Island” and “Magnolious Malaysia - Langkawi Archipelago”. “Magnolious Malaysia - Penang Island” will be the last in the series. Two separate videos of life under lockdown on Rebak Island and Penang Island were previously uploaded and complete the series. These are now in chronological order on the website, so you’ll have to scroll down to find them. Enjoy!
Roy also enjoyed a few cold beverages on the patio of Chimac Station, a Korean “chicken and beer” establishment. Although he definitely doesn’t approve of the chicken, he certainly enjoys the beer and the company of fellow cruisers who happen to stop by. A barbecue onboard during a brief break in weather of pouring rain, which started this afternoon and has continued tonight, was followed by a very informative documentary film and certainly a wakeup call for humanity; David Attenborough’s, “A Life on Our Planet”, acts as his “Witness Statement” on what he has seen happen to the natural world over his lifetime, now aged 93, and shares first-hand his concern for the current state of the planet and his hopes for the future. Definitely worth watching, but, more importantly, each doing our part to facilitate the changes needed.
Fortunately we’ve also had a thunderstorm every afternoon, which has definitely helped break the unbearable heat.
Since neither of us could keep our eyes open, for whatever reason, on Tuesday night, while watching a movie, we opted for an early night; the first one in ages. That, of course, meant we were both wide-eyed and bushy-tailed at sunrise and by 1000, Roy had completed his exercise walk and fixed our website issue with the email component, while Elaine had completed her stretch exercises on the transom, had resolved our latest medical insurance issues and completed all her chores. This was not a good idea as we then had the entire day to sit and look at each other. Fortunately we did have “musical chairs” for a little bit of entertainment, as various yachts were moved to different berths, given that Catamini had departed a few days ago. This turned out to be a much better option for us since the big motor yacht to our port side was moved and replaced with a smaller sailing yacht, giving us more of a view. Hey, we’ll take whatever we can get these days to change the monotony!
Today we woke to the news Keenan had eventually received his first COVID-19 vaccination, although it brought on a terrible migraine, which we hope subsides soon. For our outing today we returned to one of our favourite restaurants in Georgetown. It had also been months since we were in the UNESCO World Heritage area of the city and, that in itself, was a treat.
After a delicious lunch we wandered around Gurney Plaza, but finding cotton sheets and towelling slippers for Elaine was no easy feat. Fortunately we didn’t return empty-handed, but we learnt something in the process; Malaysia doesn’t sell top-sheets or flat-sheets, only fitted-sheets and shoe sizes are something of a swag; although her slippers are the same size from a numbering perspective, one style is too small and the other too big! Oh well!
Today was another day of saying goodbye to cruising friends; this time it was Roger and Lucie, off Catamini, who are putting their yacht on the hard and returning home to Belgium. We had hoped to wave them off too, but somehow missed them. When we looked again their berth was empty. Regardless, we wish them safe travels.
We’ve also had a number of other cruising friends make the difficult decision to give up on their circumnavigation because of the pandemic and have, instead, shipped their yachts home. We trust by now Blue Summit has arrived safely and we wish Hakuna Matata and TiSento a safe journey home. Of course, all of this activity has set our minds racing again on what to do, especially with the visa amnesty period possibly coming to a close, but we’ve decided to do nothing! Yep, absolutely nothing! We’re leaving this decision in the hands of fate and will make our decisions as and when the cards are dealt.
The good news is that Keenan eventually got an appointment to have his first COVID-19 vaccination; just a tad overdue, considering he’s being flying for a few months now and a definite worry for us.
The second piece of good news relates to the hard work and dedication of Captain Roy. For months we have reported that, besides working on the numerous yacht projects, he was also working on some major enhancements to the “Anchor Plus” application. Well, this effort eventually came to fruition today after he received approval from Apple.
We originally designed and developed this application as an anchor assistant, "Anchor Basic", a free app on the App Store, since we were tired of cruisers anchoring on top of us, but, over time, it has been expanded to be a “one-stop-shop” for cruisers, which can be downloaded to any Apple mobile device running Version 12 and higher and includes features that allow you to:
- Use Siri Shortcuts and voice commands to set the anchor alarm
- Set the alarm during anchoring (current position) or afterwards (bearing & distance) or coordinates
- Support for iOS14 Home Screen widgets
- Day and night theme, metric or imperial, various alarms
- Apple Watch remote control, set the anchor from your watch
- Receive email status updates and alarm alerts on another device
- Scan the QR code and monitor the anchor status from another device
- Man Overboard provides bearing to steer and distance back to MOB point
- Map view with drift history
- Current and 7 day weather forecast with wind alerts
- Tropical weather from the top severe weather providers around the globe
- Compass and anchor retrieval tool with bearing and distance to anchor
- Support for MFi external bluetooth GPS on WiFi only devices
- Use the anchor assistant to determine the correct scope and provide a visual representation of where your vessel should be after the anchor is set
- Barometric pressure trend for up to 7 days Sun & Moon azimuth, elevation and illumination
We trust you will find this to be a very useful tool to have onboard. We do! Enjoy!
