After breakfast we dinghied ashore and walked to the New Port, where we cleared out of Corfu Island at Port Authority, then walked to the nearby Customs office to clear out of Greece, giving us 24 hours to leave their territorial waters.
From there we walked to the cruise ship terminal, where we’d started our Hop On Hop Off tour yesterday, knowing we’d find a taxi in the vicinity to take us to the Lidl’s supermarket to complete our provisioning.
It was lovely to find a different variety of food that we haven’t eaten in a while, including smoked salmon, salami sausage, pork chops, digestive biscuit, French and Dutch cheeses and a variety of European chocolates, to mention a few.
Then, after walking back, loading and unloading the dinghy, but not before we had enjoyed an ice-cream while floating back to Paw Paw, given that we were enjoying the hottest day of the year thus far, at 25C, we weighed anchor at around 1000 and set off for our overnight anchorage on the west coast of Corfu Island.
As we motored north, then west, we could see settlements and a fairly large town on the Albanian coast, as well as beautiful bays with sandy beaches at their heads along the coast of Corfu Island and picturesque limestone cliffs that continued along the coastline as we turned south, concluding that this was the attraction of Corfu Island, as apposed to what we’d seen during our land explorations. Unfortunately, with the prevailing winds, these bays were unsuitable as anchorages.
By 1600 we were anchored in the stunning, large horsehoe bay of Geórgios, surrounded by rocky outcrops and vegetation clad mountains, off the little village of Afiónas. It was one of the prettiest bays we’d seen during our travels through Greece and, fortunately, given the very calm weather conditions, was tenable for our visit, with good holding in sand and plenty of swing room, given that there were only four other yachts in the anchorage.
Once settled, we beached the dinghy, enjoyed a walk along the golden sandy beach that ran the full length of the bay, before choosing San George Food Bar, one of the many boutique hotels’ bar, restaurants and cafés running along the beachfront, for a sundowner and celebratory drink, the latter in lieu of the fact that we’d made it through Greece before our Cruising Permit and Transit Log had expired, saving ourselves a substantial amount of money on import taxes. A delicious dinner was then enjoyed at Kali Orexi before returning to Paw Paw for a hot shower and early bedtime; it had been another busy day and we had a very early start in the morning.
Enjoying a beautiful sunrise and picturesque scenery, we trundled up the channel to the bridge, arriving a little early, but holding back a few hundred metres since, although we understood this was a swing bridge, we weren’t altogether sure which way it would swing.
Having contacted Bridge Control to inform them of our intentions, at precisely 0800, the sirens sounded and the west side of the bridge started to lift, before the remainder of the bridge swung towards us and we were able to pass through. It was a bit of an obstacle course, but within minutes were were back in open water, having passed another ancient castle to our starboard side, located at the northern entrance to the channel; another lovely surprise.
Setting course for Preveza, on the mainland, where we needed to stop for diesel, was the next task of the day. It didn’t help matters, though, that the first fuel dock we approached was closed.
After being referred by the marinero, we changed plans and headed northwards over the large bay to the Preveza Marina, where a very pleasant young man, who spoke very good English, assisted us. Changing plans, however, became the norm for the rest of the day.
Originally the plan was to set sail for Paxos Island after filling up with diesel, a very expensive exercise mind you, at 50% more expensive than anywhere else in the world where we’ve filled up. However, by 1745 we’d weaved Paw Paw in and out of every anchorage available on Paxos Island, but to no avail.
As a standard practice aboard Paw Paw, before setting sail anywhere, besides checking what the expected weather should be en route, as well as the weather at our next destination, we research and examine every viable anchorage for the expected conditions, ensuring those anchorages are orientated in such a way as to provide the best protection, we determine whether the bottom is sand, mud, rock, weed or a mixture, we determine the size of the anchorage, which provides an idea of swing room and we collate information from other cruisers, who have visited the anchorages previously, on the general area in terms of scenery, activities available, amenities ashore, etc. To do this we use a variety of sources, which usually include cruising guides, pilots, our electronic charts, online blogs that cruisers create and, more recently, the Navily application, which we understood to be the ”go to de factor standard” for the Mediterranean.
Well, having completed our due diligence as usual, what we found on Paxos Island was no comparison to what our research had revealed; every anchorage was minute, with barely enough room for 1-3 small yachts, given that most of the space was taken up by local boats and fishing pods. There wasn’t enough room to swing a cat, never mind shoehorn Paw Paw in anywhere and Elaine is pretty adept at doing that.
Instead, another change of plan; head for Corfu, the most northerly Island in Greece and defining the border between the Ionian Sea and the Adriatic Sea. This decision not only changed our plans for the day, but changed our strategy and all the arrangements already put in place for our imminent departure to Italy. We had planned on an overnight sail to bring us into the southern part of Italy at the “sole of the boot”, as apposed to “the heal”. Leaving from Corfu, however, has the advantage of negating the need for an overnight sail, but the distance we’ve sailed north requires us to re-sail it south, once we reach Italy, adding unnecessary nautical miles to our overall passage through the Mediterranean.
It didn’t help matters that our journey northwards to Corfu was in a thunderstorm, with howling winds on the nose, in churned up seas, which made the anchorage we’d chosen off Corfu Island extremely uncomfortable as the wind and swell turned northeast ie straight into the anchorage, that had every yacht bouncing around and making it extremely precarious to get to shore for a very late dinner. Fortunately our anchor spot was in sand, with plenty of swing room and directly opposite a very sturdy dinghy dock belonging to a highly recommended taverna, Panoramic, where we, not only had the most delicious moussaka, but a chilled alcoholic beverage, which we both desperately needed at this point; we were well and truly over motoring through Greece, in unpredictable and unpleasant weather conditions. On the bright side the temperatures had increased quite dramatically the further north we progressed, reaching the early twenties and forecast to reach the mid-twenties tomorrow; warmth at last! This, of course, could be a case of: “Careful what you wish for“.
Back onboard, a cup of tea before bedtime sealed a very eventful, hectic and frustrating day.
Although we acknowledged that travelling in the lee of Kafelonia Island would mean no wind, none was forecast, and it was the shortest route to Lefkás Island. It did, however, mean heading east ie backwards, for roughly two hours to clear the southern side of the island. What we weren’t expecting was the 15 Kts of wind on the nose as we rounded the southeastern corner of the island, slowing our SOG to less than 5 Kts. So, alter course, roll out the headsail and sail the conditions. Looking at the topography, though, we realised this was a local phenomena as the wind funnelled through the channel between Lefkás Island and Ithaki island. Once we passed that gap, the wind died and we were back to motoring, but we’d enjoyed a little bit of a sail for a few hours.
By 1430 we were approaching the channel between Lefkás and Meganisi islands. Given that this was charter country, there were plenty of yachts out and about, which, of course, meant dogging them as more than one tacked across our bow or cut across our bow while under motor in passing us. It was the typical “full steam ahead” mentality regardless of the circumstances.
In reaching our chosen anchorage then, it was no surprise to find that it too was a very busy anchorage, reminding us of Bum’s Bay in Southport, Australia, but Elaine wasted no time at all in finding the perfect open spot for Paw Paw.
Once settled, we dinghied ashore to stretch our legs and enjoy a snoop around, stopping at one of the many bars, restaurants and cafés lining the waterfront for a sundowner. What was striking, though, besides the beautiful flowers, was the price differential between what we paid for our drinks in the less touristy islands compared to more than €2 more for each of the exact same drinks we ordered.
Back onboard, while Roy removed layers of sand off Paw Paw, acquired by the numerous dirty rain showers we’d had on our journey through Greece, Elaine cooked dinner.
A hot shower and bed wrapped up our day, although we did manage to watch half a movie too before neither of us could keep our eyes open any longer.
By 0930 we were passing Zakinthos Island, where we had previously planned to stop, but went to the port town of Katakolo instead, in order to take the opportunity to see the ancient city of Olympia. We could, however, see Kafelonia Island in the distance; our next destination.
Besides a ferry crossing from Zakinthos Island, whose Captain insisted on nearly removing our stern, we also had a slight current against us for a short period of time, but we were able to maintain a SOG (Speed Over Ground) of 6 Kts and by 1430 we were anchored off a beautiful little beach in the village of Spartia, bordered by stunning white limestone cliffs and lapped by crystal clear deep blue water that changed colours with the angle of the sun; it’s been lovely to see crystal clear water again, much clearer than Türkiye.
The surrounding buildings were mostly villas and apartments, clinging to the cliffs and set amongst surprisingly lush vegetation. We’d forgotten how picturesque Kafelonia Island was, having visited here in 2012, when we first sailed around the Ionian Islands.
We originally hadn’t planned on continuing this far north through the Ionian Islands, but decided to save ourselves an additional night of sailing when we cross over to Italy, as well as give ourselves the opportunity to see some of southern Italy, instead of setting sail straight for Sicily, especially since we have a few days to spare in Greece before our Cruising Permit expires. Additionally, we wanted to avoid the risk of encountering any illegal migrants if we crossed to Italy too far south.
After we were anchored and deciding to stay onboard, Roy enjoyed a nap, while Elaine pottered around. Although there were two other yachts in the anchorage, it was so quite we could hear the birds ashore.
A light dinner was enjoyed before we both needed our beds; all the early morning rises were catching up, but not before we’d raised a glass to Keenan and Brooke on the closing of their new home.
The train arrived in Olympia at around 0930 and a short walk got us to the archeological site.
Olympia is a small town on the Peleponnese peninsula, famous for the nearby archaeological site of the same name, the birthplace of the most famous and important sporting event in the ancient world, where the ancient Olympic Games were held from the 8th century BC to the 4th century AD (776 BC to 393 AD), every four years, as they are today and were restored in 1894 in honour of the ideal of “peaceful international contention for excellence”.
The site was also a place of worship, a sacred grove, dedicated to the Greek god, Zeus, from about the 10th century BC. Greek mythology credited the greatest of the Greek heroes, Heracles, whose name was later romanticised as Hercules, with devising the running races at Olympia to celebrate the completion of one of his twelve “Labours”, a series of episodes carried out as a penance.
Deciding to walk to the furthest point, we passed the various excavated ruins, including the Phidias workshop, the Palaestra, a center for wrestling, and the Leonideum before reaching the more well known constructions.
The Council House Bouleyterion (6th - 5th Century BC) was the meeting building for the Olympic Council. Here the athletes and the judges took the sacred oath before the beginning of the games. An Ionian portico was added on the east side of the complex in the 5th Century BC.
The Base of Paeonios’ Victory (5th Century BC) where the statue of the winged Victory, made by the famous sculptor, Paeonios, stood on the tall triangular base. The base is 9m high and, combined with the statue, stood 12m in height. On the front side of the base there was a votive inscription, now on display, together with the statue of Victory, in the Museum of Olympia, detailing the triumphant victory of the Messenians and Naupactians, the donors of the statue to the Sanctuary, over the Spartans in 421 BC. On the lower part of the base a later inscription was engraved by the Messenians around 135 BC.
The Votive Monument of Ptolemy II, a construction sponsored around 270 BC by the Ptolemaic dynasty, based in Alexandria, Egypt, during the turbulent Age of the Successors following the death of Alexander the Great (323 BC).
The Temple of Zeus (470-457 BC), a model "canon" of the Doric Order peripteral temples, with six columns on the narrow sides and thirteen columns on the long sides, designed by architect, Libon the Elean. Positioned in the cella, the inner chamber of an ancient Greek temple, was the colossal gold-and-ivory made cult statue of Zeus, sitting 12m in height, and is one of the seven wonders of the ancient world, fashioned by the renowned Athenian sculptor, Pheidias. The two pediments were decorated with marble sculptures depicting mythological scenes; the east pediment depicted the contest between Pelops and Oinomaos, while the west pediment depicted the fight between Lapiths and Centaurs. The “Labours of Heracles” were depicted on the twelve interior "metopae", a rectangular architectural element that fills the space between two triglyphs in a Doric frieze. Unfortunately the temple was destroyed by the earthquakes of 522 and 55l AD.
The Bases of Zanes (4th - 1st Century BC); the Zanes (plural form of the name Zeus), were bronze statues of Zeus placed on the sixteen bases. They were erected with the fines imposed on athletes who had committed the offence of cheating. The inscriptions on the bases named the athlete and the nature of the infringement, for which he was penalised. The position of the Zanes along the way to the Stadion was a warning to all competitors.
The Stadium (Middle of the 5th Century BC); the present (final) position of the Stadium is that of Classical times, with track dimensions between the stone starting and finishing lines set at 192.27×28.50 m. The embankments did not have stone seats, except for the “exedra" (platform) for the "Hellanodikae" (judges) of the Olympic games on the south side. On the north embankment, still visible, is the altar of Demeter Hamyne. The capacity of the Stadium is estimated to have been 45,000 spectators. The "Krypte" (monumental arch entrance) was erected at the west side in the late Hellenistic period.
The Metroom (4th Century BC), another Doric Order peripteral temple, with six columns on the narrow sides and eleven on the long sides. It was dedicated to the Mother of gods, Rhea or Kybele. During Roman times the temple was used as a cult place in honour of the Roman emperors and the cella was adorned with their statues.
Hera’s Altar, where the lighting of the Olympic Flame took place, and is still lit today, signifying the official start of the Olympic Games.
The Temple of Hera (End of the 7th Century BC), also known as the Heraion, is the oldest temple of the Sanctuary and one of the earliest known examples of the Doric Order in Greece. The temple is amongst the best specimens of archaic Doric peripteral temple architecture, with six columns at the narrow sides and sixteen columns at the long sides. According to legend, the “Iphitos' Bronze Disc”, known as the Disc of the Sacred Truce, was kept here. In Roman times, the statue of Hermes, constructed by the sculptor, Praxiteles, was positioned in the cella.
The Philippeion, probably the most iconic landmark of the complex, was a “tholos”, a circular memorial in “chryselephantine” (Materials of limestone and marble), which contained ivory and gold statues of Philip II of Macedon, King of the ancient kingdom of Macedonia from 359 BC until his death in 336 BC. The statues were of himself, Alexander the Great, Olympias, Amyntas III and Eurydice I, made by the Athenian sculptor, Leochares, in celebration of Philip's victory at the Battle of Chaeronea in 338 BC. The importance of the “chryselephantine” material used is that it was also the material used for the Statue Of Zeus at Olympia and it was the only structure inside the sacred grove dedicated to humans, thus comparing the Macedonian royal family to the gods.
Before catching the train back to Katakolo, we enjoyed a coffee and some very tasty baklava at Café Rodon, then enjoyed a stroll around the little town centre, packed with throngs of tourists as was the archeological site.
By 1400 we were back in Katakolo, although it too was busy, given that there was another cruise ship in town, following which we found a little shop that was somewhat comparable to a grocery store to top up our provisions before clearing out, enjoying a cold beverage at Azzurro Expresso Bar and returning to Paw Paw for dinner and an early night, delighted, though, that we’d had the opportunity to visit ancient Olympia, another highlight of our circumnavigation.
With calm winds and flat seas forecast, we hadn’t expected to sail or, indeed, motor-sail, but, by 0900, we had a light breeze out of the west. Unfurling the headsail gave us a little extra speed and a slightly earlier arrival time. Regardless, it was another long day.
Having passed a few nondescript towns along the coastline, by 1100, we could see the headland we were heading towards in the distance, but we had noticed the scenery had changed quite significantly; it wasn’t as rugged and it was much greener.
To pass the time, Elaine had a nap in the afternoon, following which we received word from South Africa that her brother was out of surgery and in recovery after a second procedure. Unfortunately we received a message later this evening, indicating that a problem associated with his first procedure a few weeks ago, had been identified. We await the outcome of that.
By 1600 the westerly wind strengthened slightly, which would have been far more beneficial than half an hour before we anchored. Nonetheless, we were anchored by 1630 in the port town of Katakolo.
Once settled, we dinghied ashore, finding a rather precarious dock, but deciding it would suffice until we’d had a chance to snoop around, before heading off in the direction of the town harbour and the Port Police to clear in.
What we found was a building near the cruise ship terminal that looked derelict, but formalities were completed nonetheless, before Roy returned to the dinghy to move it to a far more robust dock we found inside the town harbour.
With the cruise ship departing, the town was somewhat deserted, but we enjoyed a sundowner at Azzurro Expresso Bar, before having a tasty dinner at Mouragio. By then, though, all we wanted was our hot shower and bed.
Once we worked our way through all the anchored cargo ships in the Gulf of Lakonikós, we unfurled the 150% genoa, put it on the barberhauler, increasing our SOG (Speed Over Ground), helped by a west setting current, and continued on under overcast skies, both still kitted out in our winter woolies to brace ourselves against the cold temperatures.
By 1015 we had full sails up, enjoying a broad reach sail with an average SOG of 6.8 Kts in a 10-15 Kt breeze out of the northeast. Unfortunately it didn’t last and by 1300 we’d dropped the mainsail and we were back to motor-sailing on the headsail. Regardless, it had been a fun few hours and had helped hone some of our skills again. With the wind dropping, though, the further west we went, the more lumpy the sea state became; probably residual turbulence from the storm, but the sun was trying to peek through and we could see patches of blue sky.
After transiting the Gulf of Messiniakós, the western most peninsular of the Peleponnese could be seen in the distance at around 1330; always a welcoming sight seeing the destination you are heading to.
By 1800 we were anchored of the picturesque port town of Methoni, but it was the Bourtzi and the Castle of Methoni that captured our interest; it was spectacular, but it was only later this evening that we came to appreciate the enormity of the structure, occupying the whole area of the cape and the southwestern coast.
Once settled, we dinghied ashore and enjoyed dinner in the festive little square of the town surrounded by tavernas. We chose the Mohon restaurant for our light meal, before taking an evening stroll along the outer edge of the castle and the bordering cliffs and what a treat this turned out to be, in particular the magnificent sunset.
Research revealed that the castle was built by the Venetians in the early 13th century and is among the largest in the Mediterranean. As we rounded the corner of the dirt pathway, we were in awe of the size of the castle, the moat surrounding it, which separated the castle from land, the fabulous stone bridge consisting of 14 arches, connecting the castle to the shore and where the celebrated symbol of Venice and the winged lion of St Marc dominated the main gate.
Various reliefs, emblems, blazons, inscriptions and the relics of two Ottoman bathhouses have survived, including the fortified islet, the Bourtzi, built in 1500; a prison and a place where many soldiers and inhabitants of Methoni were slaughtered during the Turkish Occupation. The Bourtzi is connected to the Sea Gate of the castle with a paved tiny road.
Also preserved are parts of the well constructed stones from the ancient walls of Methoni, houses where the Venetian lords lived, the Byzantine church of St. Sophia, remains of the British prisoner's cemetery from World War II and, in the interior of the walls, ruins of Turkish military establishments, as well as parts of the Byzantine fortification in one of the towers.
Inscribed plaques include the coat of arms of the families of the Foscarini, Foscolo and Bembo, to which the inscription denotes the construction of the Bembo battlement, just before 1500 and an inscribed plaque from the time when General Loredan was in command of the Peleponnese.
Throughout history, the castle has been occupied by the Venetians, on two separate occasions, the Turks during the Ottoman Empire and the French.
For us, though, it was a fascinating structure and a wonderful experience to have seen it.
