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During the last hour of Elaine and Justine’s watch the stronger winds continued, allowing us to enjoy a SOG (Speed Over Ground) of 6.8-7.5 Kts, under a doubled reefed mainsail and our standard genoa unreefed, in relatively slight seas, making for a fabulous sail.

During Roy and Paul’s watch the winds died and on went the engine again, but at the change of watch back to the girls, a fly infestation had to be dealt with before the boys could go to bed.

With the girls left to their own devices, the wind picked up soon afterwards, so the headsail was unfurled and off went the engine, allowing us to sail along nicely under a double-reefed main and a full headsail. However, like someone switched off the lights, the winds died again at around 0545.

With the overcast sky, night gave way to a rather miserable, gloomy day, but a slight increase in the wind speeds to around 12 Kts just after breakfast, allowed us to shake out the mainsail, unfurl the headsail and set a course in the general direction of southwest, giving us a SOG (Speed Over Ground) of around 6.2 Kts.

However, after the girls went off watch at around 0830, unexpected mayhem developed on Paw Paw, of which the girls were completely oblivious and slept through it all.

Out of the blue, without warning, the winds increased to 28 Kts sustained. With that, the main was sheeted in as tightly as possible to reduce the sail area, the headsail was furled to a slither and Paw Paw was turned onto a deep broad reach to slow her down as much as possible, all of which still made for a feisty SOG of 10 Kts. It didn’t help matters that the wind direction then veered from northeast to southeast in a matter of seconds.

It was just before noon when the wind suddenly dropped as quickly as it had increased, forcing Roy to wake Elaine in order to get the mainsail down during the lull. Since the weather forecasts hadn’t mentioned any of this, we had no idea what we were in for for the rest of the day and decided not to run the risk of getting caught out again with a full mainsail up in these very flaky conditions, which seemed to come in bands for the rest of the afternoon, allowing us to sail, but using our trusty headsail alone and giving us a SOG of around 8 Kts when the wind increased to 15-20 Kts.

Will calm restored, Elaine opted to try and go back to sleep, leaving Roy to do the SSB/HF radio net, but to no avail. Instead she had a shower, had some lunch and sent Roy to bed. Paul had already found his bed, while Justine enjoyed some quiet time at the helmstation, listening to her audiobook and looking out for dolphins. Since these were not forthcoming, she resorted to counting little white seahorses.

The winds continued to fluctuate and by 1600 we had 17-21 Kts, giving us a SOG of 8-8.9 Kts, the latter while Paul cooked dinner; aubergine burgers.

With the churned up sea conditions too, it seemed we were in for a stormy night, with not a single weather forecast helping us to figure out a plan of action, so, we did nothing, leaving Paw Paw to sail on the full headsail alone.

After a very tasty dinner, dessert was peaches and custard; we were very pleased with ourselves in having completed the bulk of the provisioning in Gibraltar. That included the “goody bags” Elaine had put together for everyone for the passage. It was, of course, a competition on who could hold out the longest before breaking theirs open. Justine, followed by Roy in quick succession this afternoon and then Elaine tonight broke the spell. It appears Paul is the only one onboard with any will power. The trick now was to see who could make their goodies last the entire passage.

Our entertainment for the day, however, excluding the numerous sail changes, engines going off and on, Paw Paw crawling to flying along, the fly infestation, etc, was watching the other yachts around us as some crisscrossed our bow like a yoyo, others our stern and some literally going in circles around us, as they too figured out what to so with this weather.

Thankfully the winds picked up again during Elaine and Justine’s early morning watch, which allowed us to unfurl the headsail, switch off the engine and sail on a beam reach; Paw Paw’s fastest point of sail. It was perfect, reaching a SOG (Speed Over Ground) of 6.5-7.8 Kts in 11-14 Kts of wind and relatively flat seas.

Once the waxing gibbous set in the early hours of the morning, it made for a very dark, but magnificent starry night, the likes of which can only be seen at sea.

By 0630 the skies had lightened with beautiful colours from the east and by 0730 we had enjoyed our first sunrise at sea for this passage.

By 0800 Elaine and Justine had had breakfast and had headed to bed, leaving the boys on watch, although Roy seemed to be the only one struggling to sleep and definitely looked sleep deprived. The rest of us were sleeping like babies on our three-hour off watch slots.

With the wind remaining at 10-15 Kts out of the east and with full sails still flying, we altered course slightly to starboard, putting us on a COG (Course Over Ground) of 225T, taking us a little further off the African coast and running parallel to our planned route.

We did, however, have two large monohulls pass across our bow within half a nautical mile at first light, heading due south. By midday they were just a blip on the horizon, but we were trundling along nicely with an increased SOG of 7.3-8 Kts, deciding then to pinch a few more degrees to starboard, putting us on a COG of 232T and increasing our VMG (Velocity Made Good), a measurement that tracks the positive distance we’re making towards our destination. The closer one’s VMG is to the SOG the better.

By noon, Elaine and Justine were back on watch and it was time for the SSB/HF radio net, following which we enjoyed lunch. It wasn’t long after that that Roy and Paul surfaced, although Elaine sent Roy back to bed to try and make up for his lost sleep, while she remained on watch.

As the day progressed, though, the skies became overcast with cirrus, then hazy due to the red dust in the air coming off Africa. That said, we were keeping an eye on the barometer, since one of the weather forecasts had indicated a localised front near the Cape Verde islands due south of us; something we wanted to avoid!

By 1830, we’d all enjoyed our pizza dinner, we’d reefed down for the night, with Paul chipping in to help, and Elaine and Justine had headed to bed.

During the boys watch the wind dropped, forcing on an engine, but shortly after the girls came on watch, the winds had increased again, the full headsail was unfurled, the engine was switched off and we could enjoy sailing again.

By 2300 the stronger forecasted winds arrived, forcing Elaine to reef the headsail as well, but we still managed a SOG of 6.5 Kts and we’d claimed back a few degrees to starboard, taking us back to our route. We were contented with that and sailing along nicely.

This morning everyone seemed to be awake early, including Elaine. Nerves and excitement had got to all of us, understandably so.

Either side of our standard breakfast in Las Palmas of freshly baked croissants and various other French pastries, complements of Paul, accompanied by a selection of fresh fruit, fruit juice and each person’s favourite hot beverage, Paw Paw was a well oiled machine as everyone completed their final preparation tasks. These included getting all the flags down, unzipping the stackpack and preparing the mainsail, removing the absorption chains from the stern docklines, replacing these with running lines for easy castoff, closing hatches, stowing last minute bits and bobs, Elaine making our vegetable soup for dinner tonight, disposing of the garbage, installing the stern lifelines and lifting the saloon sunscreens, to mention just a few.

To the music of “Sailing” by Mike Oldfield blasting out of Paw Paw, by 1115 we’d cast off the dock and joined the queue of yachts leaving the marina and what a festive atmosphere it was, leaving Elaine a little emotional. It was fabulous! We were starting our final passage of our circumnavigation.

Bobbing around in the harbour area near the start line, Roy, with help from Paul, raised the mainsail and by 1230 we were underway, crossing the start line under sail on a port tack, albeit a rather difficult manoeuvre, given the complete lack of wind. Shortly thereafter we tacked, switch on one of the engines, set our course southward and said goodbye to Las Palmas.

By 1300 the first Deck Log updates had been completed and everyone had found their spot in the cockpit, while Captain Roy sat on watch, with assistance from Elaine and Paul from time to time; watches were officially starting at 1900.

By 1730 a dinner of homemade vegetable soup, complements of Elaine, and a freshly baked baguette, complements of Paul, had been served and eaten, sails had been set for the night and the engine had been turned off. All that remained was for us to settle into our first night of watches, but not before we watched a beautiful sunset with a green flash, the latter something we hadn’t seen since we left the Caribbean 8 years ago.

With the boys on the first watch, Elaine and Justine headed for bed, but before we knew it, it was our turn. As midnight drew closer, we sat at the helmstation enjoying the waxing gibbous shimmering off the water, the stars twinkling above us and a few yachts for company, their lights visible on the horizon.

The last few days have been extremely busy, although we have had downtime to relax, socialise and share a fabulous dinner outing, complements of Paul.

On Thursday, after Justine had finished her early morning run, with Paul still in the hotel, the rest of us enjoyed our “rock painting” outing, although Paul was included via video. When we returned to Paw Paw, Paul was waiting on the dock to drop off all his electronic devices that needed charging, all of which was sanitised before coming onboard.

By then it was time for the liferaft demonstration, which Justine and Paul participated in, while Elaine and Roy lounged at the pool and watched the proceedings.

Justine was the second group to jump in the water, learn about the “crocodile” manoeuvre to get everyone to the liferaft safely and then climb into it. Paul repeated the exercise as part of the third group. It was close to lunchtime by the time the fun in the water was over, with prayers said that we never have to get into Paw Paw’s liferaft or anyone else’s, for that matter!

With that, given that we weren’t sure if Paul was still contagious or not, each couple enjoyed lunch separately.

By the time we’d returned to Paw Paw, Paul had returned to his hotel, so the girls gathered the laundry and set off to get that chore out of the way, while Roy completed the first round of the fresh produce provisioning. Being one crew member short, we decided the best strategy was to divide and conquer. We’d barely hung out the washing to dry when Roy returned. Then, leaving Elaine to sanitise, chop the vegetables and bag the ingredients needed for each meal, by week, Roy and Justine returned for a second load of fresh produce. In between this mayhem, Roy also managed to squeeze in the SSB/HF Radio Debrief and get our Yellowbrick Tracker sorted out, at last!

It’s fair to say, though, that, by the time dinner rolled around, not only was Elaine exhausted, but her legs and feet absolutely ached, all of which resulted in a meltdown; everything had simply become too much for her. Thankfully Justine was there to make her laugh again; guess that’s what dear friends do.

Yesterday Roy and Justine were up early to get back to the HiperDino for the final provisioning round; this time for all the beverages and a few last minute items, which were then delivered to Paw Paw, rather than having to be hauled back to the marina.

Once that all arrived, there was another round of having to sanitise everything, finish the chopping and bagging of meals and getting everything stowed. In between all this activity, while Justine folded all the laundry, Elaine sorted out the starboard forward cabin to make sure we could access anything needed on passage like the pilots, emergency equipment, etc and lifted everything off the sole so the bilge could be accessed easily if it needed to be checked while underway. While the girls were busy with all that and since Paul was back onboard, the boys washed the decks.

By 1530, quiet time ascended on Paw Paw and everyone found their spot in the cockpit to relax, giving us all a breather before our team photographs with the ARC photographer.

Afterwards Elaine and Roy rechecked the Iridium-GO to ensure we could get the weather forecasts and send and receive emails, to be sure, to be sure, following which Roy ran the engines and generator, again, to be sure, to be sure, then snorkelled Paw Paw’s bottom to clean the depth sensor and saildrives, check the zincs and inspect her bottom, only to discover a rope wrapped around the starboard propeller.

Sundowners on Paw Paw then preceded a delicious dinner at the Barracuda restaurant. Thank you Paul!

Today we ran around again like headless chickens. First Justine and Paul set off to Immigration to get cleared out of Schengen. Then Elaine cleared us all out with the ARC. That was followed by Justine and Paul setting off to purchase a few last minute odds and ends, while Elaine and Roy attended the Skipper’s Debrief.

By the time we returned from that, we had just over an hour to tidy Paw Paw up for a video call with a potential buyer. Leaving Roy to take the call,Elaine finished up the last of all the documentation required, while Justine and Paul completed the Pre-sail Checklist. We were ready to set sail!

A relaxing evening while enjoying a barbecue onboard brought another hectic day to a close.

Yesterday everyone was up early for their morning walks or run, except Elaine who enjoyed a sleep-in before making everyone breakfast. Afterwards Roy and Paul headed off to the chandlery to get the replacement light and triggering device for Justine and Paul’s lifejackets, which had expired, before these were inspected and passed by the Safety Inspection team.

By then it was time for Justine and Paul to head off to their seminars which Elaine had signed them up for, while Roy accompanied them on the walk so that he could continue on to the hardware shop to purchase a tool needing to be replaced and the all important paint for our rock painting efforts, following which he visited the HiperDino again to get a few top up provisions to see us through the rest of this week. On his return, Elaine met him at the Barlovento 326 café for a coffee and baked delight.

Not long after we had returned to Paw Paw, Justine and Paul had completed their morning seminars, had returned for a quick bite to eat and had headed back out for their afternoon seminars. This allowed Elaine to catch up on her blogs and social media while Roy adjusted the gas in each of the new struts he’d installed, then went for a nap.

ARC Sundowners, followed by the ARC Crew Dinner wrapped up our day, but made for a very loud and late night, with everyone having to scream at each other to be heard over the noise.

Today was methotrexate day, which seemed to have come around rather quickly. It didn’t help matters, though, that Elaine woke to the news that Paul was ill, with what appeared to be a head cold. Regardless, he’d taken the decision to leave Paw Paw and booked into a hotel for two nights in the hope of recovering by then. This did, however, send Elaine, in particular, into a panic, but Roy too on what this meant for the rest of us and the possible impact on our imminent departure. A COVID-19 test revealed a negative result and, although, this was good news, our experience of home tests is that they don’t always pick anything up until the 3rd or 4th day. At this point all we could do was take each day as it comes and see what materialises, say our prayers and hope that he makes a speedy recovery without having infected anyone else.

A slight alarm occurred this afternoon when Elaine headed back to bed for an afternoon nap, after suddenly starting to feel extremely fatigued during the morning seminar we had all attended. Putting this down to the late night combined with the methotrexate initially, panic really set in when she woke from her nap feeling absolutely dreadful. It was then that the decision was taken that we’d all skip the costume party and Roy and Justine would set off to get takeaways for dinner, while Elaine went back to sleep.

Thankfully, when Elaine woke up again to an empty yacht, she felt as right as rain, clueless as to why she’d felt so terrible earlier.

With that, arrangements were changed again; she met Roy and Justine at the top of the dock to head out to enjoy another tasty dinner at the Pier 19 restaurant, then returned to Paw Paw to get dressed in our costumes; Roy as “super” pirate and Elaine as “super” Birthday Barbie, then joining all the other ARC 2023 participants at the “superheroes” party, following which a rather fun evening ensued. By the time we returned to Paw Paw, Justine was in bed, having opted to skip the party because Paul wasn’t attending, understandably so. Such a pity, though, because it was an enchanting evening with everyone going to a great deal of trouble with their costumes. and a night Elaine won’t forget in a hurry after someone she didn’t know sat down next to her to tell her that, as far as he was concerned, she was the superhero of everyone at the party and had inspired many people on this rally.

Yesterday was a big day in many respects. Besides getting up early to check the mainsail and all the reefing lines in calm conditions, we dressed Paw Paw after enjoying a cooked breakfast onboard, we participated in the very lively ARC 2023 Parade and Opening Ceremony and Justine and Paul arrived later in the day. It had been three and a half years since we’d last said our goodbyes after their visit to us in Malaysia and just before the world was brought to its knees by the pandemic, but it felt like we’d seen each other yesterday. Additionally, we were delighted to get our Yellowbrick Tracker back, Elaine’s latest prescription glasses, additional antibacterial hand wipes, since we’d run out of them and have been unable to get any in Gran Canaria and the replacement struts we needed for the anchor lockers, all of which they brought with them. Needless to say, Roy got busy in replacing the latter almost immediately.

In between these events, we tidied up and gave Paw Paw’s decks a cursory rinse so, at least, she looked somewhat presentable for our guests, Elaine enjoyed a chat to her sister in Ireland and we stopped at the Sailor’s Bay café for a coffee, since our preferred venue was closed being a Sunday.

The parade occurred around midday, preceded by all the flag bearers congregating to collect their respective country flags, then stood in the demarcated areas to allow the rest of the ARC 2023 participants to gather behind their respective flag. We opted to carry the Irish flag, given that we’d only travelled on our Irish passports during our circumnavigation, which had got us this far without incident or the inconvenience of visas and the European Union’s Schengen restrictions and since Ireland is our chosen county to “retire” to once we swallow the hook.

We were delighted when a bunch of Irishmen joined us from one of the Oysters participating in the Oyster rally next year leaving from Antigua, bringing along with them the all important ingredients for a parade; fun, laughter and beer!

Walking to the sound of the bands, one to the front of the parade and one to the rear and following the colourfully dressed contingent of St Lucian delegates, we made our way around the marina.

After a few short speeches from various dignitaries, the country flags were raised, 33 nationalities in all, marking the opening of the rally. In many ways it was very emotional. It’s still hard to believe we’re about to undertake the last leg of our circumnavigation with friends who were aboard Paw Paw when we did our very first passage on Paw Paw, almost ten years ago.

Once Justine and Paul were settled and after they’d enjoyed a walk to stretch their legs, we enjoyed a delicious dinner at the Pier 19 restaurant, bringing a memorable day to a close.

Today, after all the energetic people went for their morning exercise walks or run, ie everyone onboard except Elaine, the day was all about completing the Safety Debrief, something Elaine was responsible for and decided that a practical application was the best way to transfer the knowledge to Justine and Paul. That meant it was all hands on deck to complete the associated activities after they’d paid the obligatory visit to the marina office to collect their access passes and the Immigration office to get stamped into the European Union, given that they travel on their UK passports.

First their lifejackets were checked, the PLBs (Personal Locator Beacons) were programmed and then fitted to their lifejackets. Next up was getting them setup to use the “at Sea” Iridium-GO satellite communications equipment onboard, ensuring all the Emergency Contact telephone numbers were transferred to each of their smartphones, following which various tests were undertaken so they knew how to make a phone call, as well as send and receive emails and messages.

Once that was completed, armed with the laminated card indicating the location of all the emergency equipment onboard, they started their “treasure hunt”, starting with the liferaft and grab bag, hauling both out of the dedicated locker, primarily to feel the weight of each and satisfy the ARC criteria that the crew can remove the liferaft to be deployed, if necessary, within 15 seconds, as well as adding the additional emergency food rations to the grab bag. This was followed by a discussion on the procedures involved, should abandoning ship become necessary and discussing the emergency steering system, then working our way through the rest of Paw Paw, lifting floorboards, bunks, lockers, etc, to find the equipment and receive instruction on how each is to be used and under what circumstance, delegating responsibilities as we progressed. Topics covered everything from MOB (Man Overboard) realities, hazards, procedures and rules to avoid this situation entirely, fire prevention and procedures, water ingress, demasting, medical emergencies and avoidance, including completing the Crew Health Form, etc.

Other discussions included what expectations everyone had of the voyage / experience and what they hoped to get out of it, handling small annoyances and the all important adherence to “provisioning consumption rules”, at which point Elaine presented each person with their individual bag of “goodies” for the passage, much to everyone’s delight. Bets were taken on who would finish their entire “stash” within the first week, with Elaine and Justine making it abundantly clear that they weren’t sharing under any circumstances!

Although it was a long day, briefly interrupted by a light lunch, complements of Roy, Justine and Paul felt more prepared and informed, besides having the practical aspects appeal to the best method for their learning, much to Elaine’s relief.

Deciding to enjoy an early dinner before the ARC sundowners event, all dressed in our team polo-shirts, complements of Justine and Paul, we made our way to the Sailor’s Bay café, only to discover the kitchen didn’t open until 1900. Resigned to the fact that we wouldn’t be getting any food for the next two hours at least, we enjoyed a number of cold beverages instead before heading to Restaurante Aramara for another delicious dinner. In fact, it was so delicious, we promised the very friendly chef that we would be back, after having an opportunity to meet her and chat.

In between all this activity, Roy added tbe last of the waypoints to the chartplotter for our route, and Justine and Paul’s lifejackets were inspected by the ARC Safety crew, only to discover the lights and triggering devices had expired, a problem for another day, but brought a rather hectic day to a close.

Given that Wednesday was Elaine’s methotrexate day, we did as little as possible and had a rather slow start to our day.

However, Roy finished the repairs of the water tank and together we returned it to the starboard forward locker, shimmying it along the deck. Prior to that, though, we did the laundry and enjoyed a mid-morning coffee while the washing machine cycle finished. Back onboard everything was hung out to dry, then we walked to the HiperDino to stretch our legs and purchase the additional emergency water we still needed and a few provisions for the week. Deciding to skip the sundowner evening with the ARC, a chat to Elaine’s mom and an early night wrapped up the day.

Thursday was a busy day, crammed with ARC seminars we wanted to attend as refreshers. So, after breakfast and listening to the morning net, we set off on foot to the Real Club Nautica, about a twenty to twenty five minute walk for Elaine from Paw Paw. Seminar topics included Emergencies at Sea, Weather Routing and Downwind Sailing Tips, followed by the evening ARC sundowners event, with a light dinner squeezed in between. A midday break allowed us to enjoy a light lunch at the Barlovento 326 café back at the marina. We certainly did our fair share of walking for the day that’s for sure, but, although it was a long day, we enjoyed meeting other cruisers and the associated camaraderie.

We also added water to the water tank, but neither of us wanted to check to see if it was still leaking, so we didn’t. We’re both just so over fresh water leaks on Paw Paw at this point and didn’t want a lovely day ruined!

Yesterday we were up with the alarm to enjoy some R&R; well, sort of. We were attending the ARC Foresta outing, managed by the Foresta Reforestation Project, and by 0900 we were on the coach heading inland and up into the mountains, leaving the city behind, surprised to discover how lush the interior of Gran Canaria was.

After arriving at our destination, a rather steep walk up the mountain side got us to a rest stop, where refreshments were served before we all received an explanation on the project and what our involvement would be for the morning; we were essentially helping to right a wrong by assisting in the restoration of the cloud-forests.

Before humans arrived on Gran Canaria, most of the island was covered in over 100,000 hectares of forest. Only the coastal strip and the highest point of the island were free of trees. While the original inhabitants cleared some forest for agriculture, it wasn't until the Spanish arrived that wholesale deforestation started.

Lowland forests were cleared for farmland, the pine forests were turned into charcoal for fuel and vast areas of forest were chopped down to fuel the island's sugar cane mills, thus destroying the historic indigenous woodlands and the native cloud forest eco-system, needed to produce fresh water and prevent soil erosion on the island, the latter only discovered later on.

The Foresta Reforestation Project is rectifying the problem and working with this non-profit organisation ensures that the trees are planted where they are most needed and that only endemic species, best suited to the climate, are planted.

The goal was to plant around 200 of these trees, but the request was to only plant one tree correctly rather than 200 incorrectly.

After receiving our instructions on the proper way to plant the trees, we all chose our holes and started planting, making for a fabulous morning, stopping only to admire the spectacular views. Before long all of the 150+trees available had been planted, less than the 200 we thought we would be planting, but we’d met our objective, much to everyone’s delight.

Before returning to the rest stop for a light picnic lunch, we enjoyed the views out towards Tenerife and beyond.

Fortunately Elaine didn’t have to walk back down the mountain after her and another cruiser were offered a ride back to the bus, thankfully, as Elaine was definitely huffing and puffing getting up the mountain, but she was delighted, nonetheless, to have made it and had participated in this wonderful undertaking, an undertaking that the World Cruising Club and ARC participants have seen 3800 trees planted over 14 years, of which 4 were planted by us. Today, up to 20,000 hectares of Gran Canaria is forested again, but, at just 20% of the original tree cover, there is a long way to go to restore the forests to their former glory, but at least, the work is in progress to do so.

By 1400 we were back in the marina and enjoyed a few refreshments with cruisers who’d invited us to join them. Leaving Roy to enjoy some male company, after her coffee, Elaine returned to Paw Paw to get a few chores completed and to get ready for the Welcome Drinks outing, following which another fun evening ensued.

Today was a work day to get through the last of the bits and bobs that still needed to be completed before our departure. These included checking all the hose clamps on both engines and replacing any, where necessary, taping the sharp edges on the lifelines of the foredeck to ensure these don’t catch any of our sails, taping all the crocodile clips to ensure they can’t open by accident, plumbing a valve to the fresh water pump to reduce the water pressure, thereby helping to reduce our water consumption on passage, plumbing a shutoff valve on the starboard hotwater tank to ensure the water can be switched off with ease should the tank start to leak again while on passage, running the engines and generator to make sure everything was operational, running the fuel polishers to ensure we don’t have contaminated fuel, securing our ARC rally number to the starboard lifelines, completing our final route planning, reviewing all the Skipper’s Briefing notes and printing what was needed, informing family and friends of our “at sea” contact details, diarising all the activities that need to be completed with Justine and Paul to make sure the time is set aside to complete those before departure and finally packing the last of the tools away.

Given our busy day, we decided to skip the ARC sundowners this evening and instead enjoyed a nice, leisurely home cooked meal, after Roy walked back to the HiperDino to purchase the ingredients we needed.

Our day ended with news that the crew off Lost Abbey had arrived safely in Cape Verde together with the rest of the ARC+ participants.

© Copyright 2011 - 2024 Elaine & Roy Cadman - Do not use any written content or photographs without written permission. All rights reserved

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