We were up with the alarm clock yesterday morning to get through emails, have breakfast and be onshore in time for our boat tour. We'd made the decision to take one of the resort tours up to Yasawa Island rather than take Paw Paw and, given the wind and seastate that awaited us, we're glad we did. Visiting Sawa-i-Lau was definitely worth the effort though.
The limestone grottos, owned by the people of Tokatoka Koro, were carved by the surrounding ocean, leaving sheer rock walls, beautiful turquoise waters and a foundation in ancient Fijian history.
On arrival, we were warned about the slippery rocks forming the "beach" and to tread carefully. Fortunately Elaine was armed with her ankle brace. So, after transversing the rocks without incident, we made our way up a series of steps before entering the first open dome cave. We then descended another series of steps, before taking the plunge into the freezing waters and exploring the cave. Not only the size of the cave, but the walls towering above us, were breathtaking. With the assistance of the guides, Roy was brave enough to dive under the curtain in order to reach the second, smaller and enclosed cave, reportedly the resting place of "Ulutini", the ancient ten-headed Fijian god.
Other legends tell the story of a young chief and his lover taking refuge in the limestone atrium after the woman's family promised her to a rival chief. With his beloved safely hidden behind the rocky curtain, the young chief would swim in and out of the cave with food and water for her until they were able to escape and settle on another island, together forever.
The caves are not only a tourist attraction, but a jewel close to the hearts of many Fijians. It is with gratitude that the people of the Yassawas allowed us a glimpse into the resting place of their "mana" or their "magic".
We returned in time for lunch and an afternoon nap, before heading back to shore for happy hour, a buffet style dinner and a "meke" at the Nanuya Island Resort, where everything presented on the buffet consisted of locally grown ingredients.
Pounding on the "lali", a hollowed out hardwood gong, signified the start of the meal. Dishes like "kokoda", a local fish cured in lemon juice and vinegar before it is rinsed and combined with coconut cream, curried cassava, a dish similar to a potato salad, tampura vegetables and spanish mackerel, just to mention a few, were amongst the favourites.
Over desserts, we enjoyed the "meke", performed by the villagers from Metacawa Levu Island. While music is an integral part of the Fijian culture, the "meke" embraces traditional song and dance to conjure up legends, love stories, spirits and history through symbolic movements. There are two distinct groups of performers, where the first are the "vakatara", the singers / orchestra and are seated on the ground on a woven mat, while the second group are the "Mata Ni Meke" or "matana", the dancers.
Traditional instruments are all percussion with the "lali" being the tempo regulator and the "derua", a bamboo tube, the rhythm instrument, which produces a hollow tone to complement the Fijian style of singing.
In traditional dress, the woman wear "salusalu", garlands of flowers, which were also presented to all of us attending the "meke", while the men wear full warrior dress.
A wonderful evening was topped off with a "shell market" and the performers singing "Isa Lei", a beautiful song that signifies a goodbye blessing, a bon vogage and a wish for all who hear it to never forget the precious moments experienced in Fiji, with the hope that they will, some day, return!
After a wonderful, eventful day yesterday, we spent most of the day onboard today, taking a break for a coffee and walk along the beach before the rain set in.
