This morning, after breakfast and getting a few chores out the way, we thought we'd dinghy ashore, present our "kava", have a snoop around the village, visit the school, enjoy a walk on the beach and return to Paw Paw for a relaxing afternoon.
Well, what transpired was definitely not what we expected or what the sailors off the other two yachts in the anchorage had experienced the day before. We put it down to the rather large, expensive bundle of "kava" we presented to the chief.
By the time we were ready to go ashore though, it was low tide and finding a way onto the beach looked a little precarious with all the rocks sticking out of the water, so we decided to wait. Then we saw a few local boats arrive and make their way through a cut in the reef. With that we set off with "kava" in hand and a few supplies for the school.
We were met on the beach by Ronnie, the "Turaga Ni Koro" of the village, a few minutes after securing the dinghy and were informed that it was lunch time. Apologising perfusely, we offered to wait under the palm trees on the beach, but we were told that that would not be necessary and to follow him to the chief.
Arriving at a newly constructed ceremonial area, we were asked to remove our shoes and enter, where the chief was waiting for us. Once directed on where to sit on the woven palm tree mats that covered the floor, which meant Roy having to help Elaine down, the ceremony began. It wasnt a "sevusevu", but it involved Ronnie and another gentleman each providing a blessing and welcome in Fijian, accompanied by hand clapping at various points, which we joined. The "kava" was then presented to the chief and, at that stage of the proceedings, Roy was asked to address the chief. At first we had no clue what that meant, but soon figured out that he had to shuffle forward on his butt, sit in front of the chief and shake the chief's hand, following which the conversation continued in English. Then the chief approached Elaine in a similar way, shook her hand and return to his position. With that, a rather formal conversation began. We were asked all sorts of questions regarding our adventures and given some background to the Fijian village lifestyle. Afterwards a formal goodbye was conducted and we then left the building.
Our next stop was the local church, with its beautiful wood carvings. We were informed that the denomination was Methodist, that services take place every Monday, Saturday and Sunday and that the minister, who resides in the village, is replaced every five years.
After leaving the church we received a tour around the village and gardens, receiving explanations of what fruit trees grow on the island, what vegetables are grown and the use of various plants. In particular, a tree where the bark sells for $3000FJD per kilogram once it reaches 20 years old and the price increases with age. Apparently the bark is a sought after ingredient in perfumes.
By now we were thinking that our tour was over, we'd visit the school and then be left to our own devices, but that was not the case.
After following Ronnie along the pathways that meandered between the village homes, we stopped outside one home, which Ronnie proclaimed to be his. He asked us to remove our shoes again and to enter. Once inside, we were introduced to his wife, Mary, informed that we had been invited for lunch and per the "Fijian Way" we were to rest. Fortunately, this time in a very comfortable and brightly coloured lounge seat, while lunch was prepared.
During this time we learnt all sorts of facts about village life - The communal village meetings take place on a Monday evening, all the homes are solar powered, supplied with an inverter and batteries, fresh water is obtained from a borehole and supplemented with rainwater, the chidren that don't attend school are looked after by the grandparents while their parents work and live away at the resorts, returning to the village on their days off. We leant that they have four grown children and ten grandchildren, of which we meet the two sons, home from the resort, four granddaughters and one grandson. We learnt that Ronnie was 63 years old and felt that the village life was a good, healthy one, consisting of a stable diet of fish and whatever fruit and vegetables grew on the island, eaten once a day as the main meal. Fruits are consumed for the other meals.
By then lunch was ready and we were escorted into the dining area. Again we sat on woven palm mats on the floor at a low table. It was at this point that Roy thought Elaine was going to "park her groceries all over the table" at the sight on the whole boiled fish chopped up - Head, tail, fins, skin, eyes, the lot - accompanied by tapioca, which is the root of the cassava tree, and fish stock as a drink. Lemon and limes are then squeezed over the meal before consumed. Regardless of the presentation, Elaine was determined to savour the experience of being invited to eat with a native Fijian family, and, savour she did! Roy later admitted that sharing the tail of the fish with Elaine rather than the head, prevented him from throwing up everywhere.
When lunch was completed a bowl of water was passed around for all of us to wash our hands and we then returned to the living area to rest, once again. It was during this time that we were both presented with a gift. Roy received a shark's tooth on a neckless and Elaine received a neckless with a matching bracelet. By this stage we were simply in awe of the experience we are having and invited Ronnie back to Paw Paw so that we could return the generosity in some small way - a Paw Paw polo shirt for Ronnie and a perfumed Body Soap and Lotion set for Mary - Gifts that seemed so inadequate, but it was all we had on board.
Then it was time to visit the local school. Escorted by Ronnie once again, we were introduced to the principal who gave us a little background on the school and to whom we handed over our gift of school supplies. We learnt that the school catered for 84 children from kindergarten to 8th Grade, following which the children attend boarding school, all of which was compulsory in Fiji.
With that our visit to a native Fijian village came to a close and it truly was a memorable and humbling experience. We haven't experienced hospitality like that since our visit to Nuiatoputapu in Tonga and it will be fondly remembered in the same way, especially all the youngsters who helped get our dinghy back in the water as we returned to Paw Paw.
Our day was still not over though. En route back to Paw Paw we were invited to go aboard Storm Dancer (Del and Craig) to enjoy sundowners with them and their visitors from Germany and with that new friends were made! A more diverse day we could not have imagined!
