Sailing in the South Pacific has taught us many things, but, as far as the weather is concerned, it is always "feast or famine".

Last night our anchorage in Port Denarau was the quietest we have ever seen it, with absolutely no wind and a sea as smooth as glass. It was still like that when we made our early morning departure for the Yasawa Islands.

We left under motor, but it wasn't long before the wind filled our single-reefed main and we were pulling out the head sail. We can't remember the last time we enjoyed a fabulous beam to close reach sail at 8.5 to 9.0 Kts, in beautiful flat seas, with winds out of the north. Of course, it didn't take long for the winds to steadily strenghten beyond what was forecast and for the seas to kick up, but, although we were down to double reefs in both sails, we were still romping along nicely. Having to turn northwards, however, put the wind on the nose, so it was a beat for the last hour or so, before we arrived at our chosen anchorage for the night, Soso Bay on Naviti Island, which is definitely anything but mediocre or "so so".

It is home to the largest village in the Yassawas, bordering a long sandy beach trimmed with palm trees. Apparently it is also very welcoming, based on the feedback we received from the sailors off the other two yachts with whom we're sharing the anchorage tonight, Storm Dancer and Knockando, and who all ended up on Paw Paw this afternoon soon after our arrival, to introduce themselves and say hi. Both yachts made their "kava" presentations this afternoon, following their arrival in the bay this morning, but after a very long sail today, we opted to make our presentation tomorrow.

Tonight, under a spectacular starry sky, no moon and the Southern Cross hanging above us, it's exceptionally dark without any light pollution. Besides the stars to light up the night sky, all we can see is the anchor lights of the other two yachts and a few village lights ashore - Peaceful indeed!