When the wind completely died down last night, it brought with it seas so flat we didn’t even feel like we were moving as Paw Paw glided through the water. Additionally, the temperatures dropped so significantly we were forced to haul out our blankets and close the saloon doors in order to stay warm during our early morning watches. We hadn’t felt that kind of cold since our New Zealand to Fiji passage in 2017; talk about going from one extreme to the next in every which way!
We also knew we’d reached the congestion area of the Suez Canal traffic with the constant chatter on the VHF radio, including hearing calls made to Talulah Ruby III and Golden Spirit, who were a good few miles in front of us by then.
By 0400 we started our turn to port with our COG (Course Over Ground) set for Soma Bay. We had four hours to go on what was one of our most uncomfortable passages, which seemed endless, never mind the amount of diesel we’d burnt through.
By 0830 we were delighted to be anchored off the myriad of resorts lining the coast. While on the morning net chatting to Talulah Ruby III and Golden Spirit, Kandiba (Hasan and Zehra) came over the horizon and anchored to our stern; at least we still had company.
Then while Elaine went for her morning nap, after notifying our shore contacts, the UKMTO (United Kingdom Maritime Trade Organisation) and the MSCHOA (Maritime Security Centre - Horn of Africa) of our safe arrival, Roy started the watermaker, replaced the oil and filters on both engines, started polishing the diesel in the jerry cans, filled the diesel tanks, stowed all the sheets and, for good measure, baked bread! The man had gone mad!
When Elaine surfaced after a fitful nap, she discovered we were surrounded by holidaymakers out on the water kitesurfing, windsurfing and dinghy sailing, causing the poor lifeguards to fly around in their dinghies to tow people back to shore, as the forecast winds started to pick up.
On the evening net we could hardly hear Michael off Golden Spirit or Paul off Talulah Ruby III, which was a tad sad, since we had wanted to say our goodbyes, albeit over the radio, after realising we wouldn’t be seeing either yacht again. Had we known prior to departing Suakin, Sudan, we definitely would have said our goodbyes then, but such is the transient nature of the cruising lifestyle. Who knows when our paths may cross again; hopefully as unexpectedly as they did for this passage, something we remain very grateful for and wish both yachts a safe onward journey, especially given the howling 20-25 Kts of wind we experienced here in a protected anchorage last night.
Regardless, since we’re not clearing into Egypt and, therefore, not permitted to go ashore, we are thoroughly enjoying our rest; we have the perfect weather to just stay in bed! Simply having a break for a few days from all the sailing to weather, or rather motoring, will be R&R enough for us before completing the last 200NM to Port Suez!
