After worming our way through all the scattered reefs on our approach to Suakin, Sudan, the darkness of the night gave way to an overcast, dull morning and, although we were only 5NM from the Sudanese coastline, we couldn’t see land at all.
Fortunately as we approached the entrance to the harbour the low cloud burnt off, revealing a bright sunny day and the sight before us was nothing like we’d ever seen before. Besides the exposed reefs everywhere, the landscape was completely devoid of any greenery; just flat desert sand as far as the eye could see, with the exception of the usual sights of a harbour and fishermen to greet us. The best was yet to come, though. As we motored further down the channel, the ruins of the historic city came into view.
While Djibouti was definitely the worst destination we’ve ever stopped at, Suakin is definitely the most fascinating - it was like going back to biblical times, literally, and the people were so friendly, shy, but very sweet really.
With Talulah Ruby III and Golden Spirit of Islay following close behind us, we entered the very protected anchorage and had dropped anchor by 0830 local time, having gained an hour with another timezone change.
Thankfully too, since we were both exhausted, the officialdom process was more efficient than any of the French islands we visited in the Caribbean, not to mention, the most professional and friendly service we had ever experience; impeccable actually, and by 1100 we were cleared in, diesel had been arranged, we had our SIM cards and everything was paid for, including our clearing out fees, with shore passes and $100 of local currency to be collected from shore in the afternoon.
Then, while listening to the sounds of children’s laughter, all swimming not far from Paw Paw, Elaine returned to her nap, which had been interrupted by the arrival of the officials. Roy was definitely more energetic, removing the mainsheet, washing it and replacing the broken block, before re-installing the sheet. Next up was the repairs to the lazy-jack, which had chafed against the main halyard, unsecured in a hasty lowering of the sail during the night.
By the afternoon we had enjoyed a lovely walk around this fascinating city to stretch our legs, Elaine’s first in weeks, following which our diesel had been delivered.
After dinner onboard, Roy enjoyed drinks on Talulah Ruby III on Elaine’s urging, while she rested and enjoyed some time to herself; heaven! Roy had no sooner returned, though, when the strong northerly winds arrived on cue. We were definitely glad to be tucked away in this secure anchorage, as the winds reached 25 to 30 Kts; the sole reason for stopping in Suakin, but we’re glad we did!
It’s fair to say, though, this entire experience has been surreal. It was over a cup of coffee that Roy stated: “Never in all my life did I think I would be having a coffee in Sudan!”.
