Yesterday it was the torrential rain that woke us up long before the alarm went off, but, thankfully, it stopped briefly for our dinghy ride across the bay to collect the hired car. However, as we drove north towards Ao Po Grand marina to collect a few more parcels that had been delivered, we could see the very ominous storm clouds regrouping all around us. By the time we’d collected the parcels and started our drive to C&C Marina to collect the new starter motor for the starboard engine, then onwards to Boat Lagoon marina, it was absolutely bucketing down, to the extent we contemplated pulling off the road at one point. Arriving safe and sound at Dean and Deluca, though, we were definitely in need of our morning coffee and baked delight; an almond croissant for Roy, carrot cake for Elaine.

With the rain continuing, we made our way to the nearby chandlery to purchase the additional antifouling and primer we needed for our second haulout in less than six months, then stopped in at Villa Market to add to our Indian Ocean crossing supplies and to top up on a few things we needed for the week. By the time we returned to Paw Paw we were both completely and utterly over the terrible weather we’ve endured since July; it is simply relentless! However, our feelings didn’t change a thing; it poured all night, leaving us to conclude that the only difference between this miserable weather and that of the UK is that the rain is warmer.

The only sunshine in our day was waking up to a number of videos and photographs Keenan had sent of the grandsons when they were younger; ones we hadn’t seen before. Definitely helped to brighten our day!

Surprisingly, though, we eventually saw the sun again this morning. It had been so long we couldn’t actually remember when last we woke to a sunny morning, so we decided to attempt to get to the Ao Phang Nga National Park again.

Things were looking up after Roy replaced the starter motor and the starboard engine purred to life. So, by 0730 we’d weighed anchor, hauled what looked like a small marine park over the bow so Roy could clean what we knew was actually our bridle and set off. We’d barely pushed the RPMs to 1000 when an awful vibration starter; the propellers must be caked in the sealife too. So, re-anchor around the headland in the Ao Yon anchorage, don snorkelling gear and clean propellers. Excellent, all ready to go! Weigh anchor again, only to find our chain was now tangled around a huge old anchor and rode which we’d winched up. So, dinghy in the water, drop said anchor into dinghy in the hopes of not popping the dinghy, unravel the anchor chain, cut away the old rode and dispense of the unwanted anchor. By this stage we were more determined than ever to get to the National Park and gave ourselves a well deserved pat on the back for our tenacity!

By 1400 we were meandering through the stunning scenery, delighted, that after months of admiring the karst lime cliffs from a distance, we were now up close and personal with them, albeit that we had a calamity of events leading up to our arrival, including winds out of the north and the tidal current against us, but we were grateful, nonetheless, for the flat seas, allowing us to run the watermaker.

The storm clouds building and the murky water from all the rain and rivers flooding into the bay were not quite the welcome we wanted, but the stunning scenery made up for it. It was well worth the wait! We were, however, very surprised at seeing only two tourists boats, a very slick looking megayacht and one other sailing yacht besides ourselves. There was literally no one else around!

By 1515 we were anchored off Koh Yang, our chosen anchorage for the night with Koh Phang Kan, commonly known as James Bond Island, as the backdrop. Perfect!