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On Sunday morning Elaine woke thinking it was around 0730, but soon discovered it was nearly 0900 and found Roy already in the starboard engine compartment replacing the v-belt on the engine, to be sure to be sure after we had trouble with the port engine one. Afterwards our search for beaches continued as we moved anchorage around the headland to Panwa Bali. This turned out to be a favourite spot, especially the lovely long beach we could walk along and our welcome at My Café, part of the 5-Star My Beach Resort, where we stopped for a morning coffee and a baked delight. Being deserted for the most part suited us just fine, but it is a very sad reality for these hotel operators who are just so thankful to have someone stop by.

When we returned to Paw Paw, we noticed our AIS (Automatic Identification System) had decided to stop working for no apparent reason. However, running diagnostics revealed that it was still transmitting and receiving, although nothing was showing on the chartplotter. After cleaning a few contacts, voila, it was working again.

This is an ongoing challenge that we’re facing on Paw Paw in trying to keep all the systems in working order as we hang around for months on end; in fact, it’s now coming up to two years since we left Indonesia and have barely sailed 1000NM since, spending endless months in marinas or at anchor under various lockdowns, none of which have actually served the purpose because stupid decisions were subsequently made, setting everything back to square one.

After fixing the AIS, we then spent the afternoon enjoying a swim off the back of Paw Paw before Roy dinghied ashore to plot the cut in the reef on Navionics which provides access to the beach at low tide and to get us a takeaway dinner from one of the local restaurants, On the Beach, continuing our culinary adventure.

Having both slept straight through the night, we were up early yesterday morning to continue our reconnaissance around the southwest end of Chalong Bay and around the southern tip of Phuket Island to Nai Harn Bay, enjoying some hidden treasures along the way, before choosing Koh Lon as our overnight stop and where we enjoyed another local lunch at the Cruiser Island Resort. Throughout our stay in Chalong Bay, it was somehow always comforting, no matter where we were in the bay, to see the Big Buddha perched on the hilltop, watching over the proceedings.

However, with all the early morning starts, by then Elaine needed an afternoon nap and actually slept all afternoon, waking just in time for sundowners.

Given that the wind picked up overnight last night and the weather forecast this morning indicated that the next round of bad weather was approaching, we weighed anchor to return to the Ao Po anchorage, stopping at Ao Yon for breakfast. En route, though, Roy notice something rather strange; fireworks being set off from one of the large commercial fishing vessels.

While we’ve seen this practice on land, taking place around the shrines at the various marinas, we’ve never seen it occur on a boat.

Research revealed that many local ceremonies and traditions are “water-based”, be they intimate family rituals or nationwide celebrations. This stems from the fact that, as a nation, Thailand grew along the banks of its mighty rivers, which, for centuries, have provided the Thai people with their staple foods of rice and fish, fuelled by the fertile lands and monsoon rains.

Many of the national festivals continue this theme, including the Thai New Year celebration of “Songkran”, known as the world’s largest water festival, followed by “Loi Krathong”, held under the full moon of the 12th lunar month, when banana stalk floats, holding incense and orchids are released onto the kingdom’s waterways, a celebrations aimed at giving back to the water gods, to thank them for their bounty over the year. As these beautiful floats are taken away with the currents, they take with them wishes for love, fortune and success.

We can only assume, then, that the lighting of fireworks on a fishing vessel is a tradition paying homage to possibly the safety of the fishermen and showing gratitude for a bountiful catch.

Bu lunchtime we were back in our regular anchoring spot, bracing ourselves for the unsettled weather, but looking forward to the turn of the season and more sailing adventures, albeit that they are still somewhat curtailed.

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